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as they said :) thats how i nutted out that mine was an o2 sensor issue (consult cable). and its fun doing fast and furious hecticness with your laptop on your passenger seat >_<

PS watch your floor doesnt fall out when you slam your laptop shut

seriously tho, o2 sensors are an awesome thing to replace. my car loved it. even in the city i get 450-500 to a tank....and the highway out west.......600+ (not entirely thanks to the new o2 sensor, but it helped smoother idle etc)

Edited by boiracer

Because the oxygen sensor can be very expensive, the problem may not with oxygen sensor itself, but may be other factors, it is a good idea to test your oxygen sensor before replacing it. Usually, a check engine light will provide the first indication that you might have a bad O2 sensor.

  • Like 1

Because the oxygen sensor can be very expensive, the problem may not with oxygen sensor itself, but may be other factors, it is a good idea to test your oxygen sensor before replacing it. Usually, a check engine light will provide the first indication that you might have a bad O2 sensor.

Since when does this ever happen?

OK so after going through a 21 page clusterf**k, I ended up buying 2 x NTK OZA395-E2 sensors from Kudos for my R33 GTR.

One sensor will clip in perfectly, the other I just need to swap the plug from the old one.

I found out my sensors were dead when I hooked up my Blazt Consult Cable and saw my sensors were just flat lining during idle and not osculating like they should.

I think I might write up a full DIY PDF for those interested instead of spending hours like I did finding the right information.

Usually, a check engine light will provide the first indication that you might have a bad O2 sensor.

My light has never come on. I think it only would if the sensor(s) weren't connected at all (because no voltage is being received). Datascan also hasn't reported any error codes from the ECU either.

Just finished fitting the new NTK sensors after tedious hours of replacing the old ones and went for a test drive.

All I can say is HOLY SHITBALLS, I can't believe all my problems have disappeared.

- Idle is now very stable and smooth and not muddy like before

- Noticeable difference in responsiveness

- Definitely increased power

- No more wastegate flutter under light boost - this was pissing me off the most and couldn't for the hell of me figure out what was causing it.

- Cruising - smooooth like it should be

I'm gonna go fill up with a full tank and see what the economy is like. Before I was only getting 350km/50L.

Will post up some Consult Cable results of before and after.

great-success.jpg

Ok analyst report:

Following this tutorial on the RB26 was probably the most helpful guide I've ever come across.

I followed pretty much every step apart from the splicing the right-hand (RH) sensor wires which wasn't necessary. I just unclipped the pins out of the rectangle plug and switched them to the existing square plug. The other sensor was a straight replacement.

Anyone doing this on the RB26 definately needs to use a 22mm sensor remover socket with a universal joint. It's pretty much impossible to reach otherwise. WD40 is also a must to "crack" the sensors loose with enough leverage.

When I removed the old sensors, I wasn't surprised how burnt out they looked:

post-47343-0-80023800-1297836018_thumb.jpg

Using the Blazt Consult Cable with Nissan DataScan, was able to get a comparison, idling @ 1500RPM:

OLD SENSORS:

post-47343-0-99448700-1297836223_thumb.jpg

NEW SENSORS:

post-47343-0-59386600-1297836239_thumb.jpg

As you can see, there's quite a difference. And just comes to show how f**ked the old ones were, causing my car to run rich constantly. The RH sensor was quite literally off the chart.

If your sensors aren't osculating like mine were before, then I would look at replacing them asap ;)

Have already done 35km's to work and home on a full tank. Fuel gauge has barely moved at all :thumbsup:

I just replaced my O2 sensor. It would run rough at lower cruising speeds (like when traveling around car parks). My tuner told me that it was the oxygen sensor heat senso that had gone. It would only do it once the exhaust started cooling down. It would do it more so we thought, because I had a 3" turbo back exhaust aswell which would cool down much faster. My tuner said it was making little adjustments the and that is what caused it to go wierd. I also got bad economy...maybe 350-400km a tank with mixed town and country driving.

Since changing it I have done half a tank and am definitely using less fuel. BUT it is still doing a stuttering at particular times at idle cruze. It sounds like a rotary sometimes when the exhaust cools down lol.

The O2 sensor didn't come with instructions so I hope I installed it right. It had three wires, two white and one black. It didn't know which white wires went around which way so I just crimped them hoping I got it right. Is there any specific way they are suppose to go even though they look the same?

My tuner also said that he wouldn't be a 100% sure a new O2 sensor would fix the rough cruise since it may be because the exhaust is so free flowing unlike stock.

I found it to be a real stab in the dark when I was trying to find the cause of my idle/cruise stuttering. Using the Blazt Consult Cable showed me what sensors were the culprit

I don't think the exhaust size would have too much of an influence on your issue, since the o2 sensor is on the upper manifold next to the engine.

If you're already noticing better fuel efficiency then I guess you did wire up the sensor wires correctly.

Next you might want to look at cleaning your AFM's if you haven't before. AFM's need cleaning every now and then because oily residue builds up on the sensor components. This could also be sending false readings to your ECU.

Get some "CRC Air Flow Sensor Cleaner" available at Supercheap or Autobarn: http://www.superchea...=157339#details

The O2 sensor didn't come with instructions so I hope I installed it right. It had three wires, two white and one black. It didn't know which white wires went around which way so I just crimped them hoping I got it right. Is there any specific way they are suppose to go even though they look the same?

You have a zirconia sensor, they have 3 wires, 1 black and 2 white, both white wires are heaters so it doesn't matter which way they go. Whereas titania is different and it does matter, red wire is the heater positive (also doubles as the incoming signal wire) and white wire is the heater negative

What "kills" on O2 sensor? excessive heat or excessive unburnt fuel (carbon)? Reason i ask is my 34r runs a Nismo stage1 (aka "generic") tuned ecu. the car does run quite rich. I know my 02 sensors need replacing but will the current rich tune kill the new 02 sensors? should i wait until i do PFC & tune and then replace the 02 sensors then?

  • 2 months later...

So would I be right in say this http://www.kudosmoto...det-p-1023.html is correct for a R33 GTST 96'? Has any light been shed on what tools are required to remove this sensor?

I'd give him a call, Andrew is a great guy to work with and knows plenty about skylines.

That said it looks like the right one.

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