Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For use guys that are running a flex fuel set up. Which content sensor are you using and what did it cost? I can get a genuine gm sensor which is the flow through type for around $200. I have not seen to many more for sale that are available locally

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434195-which-ethanol-content-sensor-to-use/
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

If I was to use an Adaptronic Select plug in ECU will this be compatible with it?

Yes, but remember adaptronic ECU doesn't truly do flex fuel - as it doesn't have the capability to blend maps like say a haltech as such.. it just adds/deducts timing and compensates fuel based on rpm/load.

good enough if you're mainly using E85 and pop in the occasional 98 or blends

Do you just pop the sensor inline in the return line then call it a day?

yepp and connect the sensor up.. if you're really tight you can connect the output to a digital volt gauge to measure ethanol content.

0V = no ethanol

1V = 20%

2V = 40%

3V = 60%

4V = 80%

5V = 100% ethanol

  • Like 1

Yes, but remember adaptronic ECU doesn't truly do flex fuel - as it doesn't have the capability to blend maps like say a haltech as such.. it just adds/deducts timing and compensates fuel based on rpm/load.

good enough if you're mainly using E85 and pop in the occasional 98 or blends

I was reading a paper linked on the adaptronic forums that talked about ethanol content and knock resistance - peak ignition timing for port injected engines is at about 40% ethanol content and additional ethanol doesn't benefit knock resistance. it was interesting reading as it means your fuel map needs to vary from 0% to 85% ethanol (to get mixtures right) but the ignition map probably only needs to vary between 0% and 40% ethanol content. (I say probably - I'm not a tuner!). So even blending maps may not produce a perfect result, although it would be conservative with the ignition timing on a partial blend which is a safe option.

quick question, I'm looking at adding an ethanol sensor to my Link G4 sometime before the end of the year. The wiring manual for the continental sensor shows a +14v output from the ECU to the sensor, but there is no such output of voltage from the ECU. I'm thinking this is just a power source from battery/ignition but obviously I don't want to fry the ECU so can anyone help me out.

I feel like this is maybe a silly question but oh well lol

yepp and connect the sensor up.. if you're really tight you can connect the output to a digital volt gauge to measure ethanol content.

0V = no ethanol

1V = 20%

2V = 40%

3V = 60%

4V = 80%

5V = 100% ethanol

Hmm.

But the sensors output a frequency, 50 to 125 hertz if I remember correctly.

The whole point of the zeitronix box is to convert that to a voltage. If you didn't need it why would people buy it?

Edited by Ben C34

Got a link to the thread mate?

Can't find it on adaptronic forums, i think it was one of the discussions on flex fuel. Here's the actual paper though (see link down the bottom to PDF):

http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/69496

Your correct, use a +14v ignition switched supply.

Thanks

I figured as much, the wiring drawing just confused me because it shows a 14v supply straight from the ECU. Figured that must have been just a switched power supply, but wasn't real keen to blow up the ECU so had to ask lol

Thanks

I figured as much, the wiring drawing just confused me because it shows a 14v supply straight from the ECU. Figured that must have been just a switched power supply, but wasn't real keen to blow up the ECU so had to ask lol

you got a diagram of that mate?

also anyone know where to buy the sensor plug?

I have sensor here but not sure how to wire it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...