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so i got a R32 GTS and well as you can expect from a N/A RB20 its rather sluggish. ive got a turbo motor that i bought, it came with the intake, turbo, dump pipe, ECU and oil lines.

the plan is to clean the turbo motor up and swap the good bits from the na block and transfer to the turbo block.

i have a few questions on thing im not clear with:

1. where do i put the AFM

2. is there any other sensors other than the AFM, O2, CAS, TPS that the GTSt has that the GTS has such as pressure sensor etc.

3. do i need a bigger fuel pump and pressure reg

possibly many more questions coming

thanx guys

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Cheaper to buy a gtst than convert a gts

You have the engine but it seems you havnt considered the brakes and the many other little things you need to make this a sucessfull conversion

Ok here is a step by step guide I wrote up a while ago:

1. Put your car on carsales.com.au

2. Sell your car

3. Buy a GTS-T

4. Go on a $4k holiday overseas with the money you saved

5. Proceed to drive your GTS-T which is worth more, less expensive and better than a GTS +T

  • Like 1

i have a few questions on thing im not clear with:

1. where do i put the AFM

From memory, it goes under / behind the airbox.

So: Airbox > AFM > Intake Pipe > Turbo

Cheaper to buy a gtst than convert a gts

You have the engine but it seems you havnt considered the brakes and the many other little things you need to make this a sucessfull conversion

This!

oh yeah, did them and the hubs already

mostly just want the engine stuff, not bothered about everything else

Considering your car will have more power then the N/A engine, there will be things that need replacing in order to handle the power upgrade.

You'd want to look out for the clutch.

A brake caliper upgrade to the GTS-T model would be a good start.

At least a 3" turbo back exhaust will help with the exhaust flow.

Did the RB20DET you bought come with the side mount intercooler and blow off valve?

It's just a start to the "To Do List" for this conversion.

I may be missing something, but if you have a turbo motor sitting there, why not jut put that in?

Sounds easier then changing bits over, not to mention the comp ratio will be right on the turbo motor

If the turbo engine is blown then disregard this :)

Okay, so I have the hubs, rotors and calliper a from a GTS t, along with the ecu and motor from one

In regard to the AFM, I have a custom intercooler, now do I put it after the intercooler in regards to pressure drop across the intercooler or am I seriously wrong

The bits I'm swapping is just vacuum lines, alt, power steer pump etc

Exhuast will be custom made, got a HD clutch waiting to go in and haven't got a BOV as I told I didn't need one as it will only ever run 7-12 psi

In regard to the AFM, I have a custom intercooler, now do I put it after the intercooler in regards to pressure drop across the intercooler or am I seriously wrong

Air flow meter measures air flow (hence the name) so pressure makes no difference, a good example is you get a cylinder of compressed air, you blow up a massive air balloon with it, the baloon takes up an entire room at atmospheric pressure vs the cylinder taking up a small space with extremely high pressure, is there more air in the cylinder? Answer is no hence assuming the pressure drop from the IC isn't due to a leak you still have the same amount of air.

If it was a MAP (pressure) sensor, then yes it would matter as it doesn't measure airflow, it just infers airflow from pressure.

Edited by Rolls

will bov or recirc valve increase perfromance and stop damage in any way

also do i need a GTS-t fuel pump or will and GTS one suffice

Not sure if they are different or not, I would get a replacement for peace of mind though.

BOV won't do anything for performance or damage, purely to keep noise levels down and stop popping/richness on gear changes.

well the cars off the road for a while so ill try the GTS one for a while and see how it goes

okay no worries

If it doesn't work it might still run but just lean and blow your motor up. Only way to know if it is working is with a wideband in the exhaust, a dyno shop could check it for you, wouldn't cost much more to just buy a new pump though.

I wouldn't run an RB20DET with the original factory turbo fuel pump. They're so old now that they're just waiting to die. On that basis, using the original NA pump would only be as bad, if not worse.

Bite the bullet, put in the $200 Walbro now and be done with it. Save yourself the headkicking you'd have to give yourself if you don't change it and it fails.

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