Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

So I've searched and cant find a repository of all questions relating to modifying an auto skyline(closest thing is auto performance thread which hardly anyone ever replies to and is mostly about figures and specs)

I think it would be helpful for all auto skyline owners to have all their questions answered in one thread...

The usual questions :

- Can someone post their standard setup in an r33 s2 auto - computer management , injector size , fuel pump type, transmission cooler type , high flow turbo , valve body mods other mods etc. and power output

- How much can a decent condition auto box usually handle before it goes boom?

- Is a transcooler is all that is needed to ensure longevity for a car running below 250rwkw?

- Recommended workshop in Sydney to work on Skyline auto tranny's?

- Recommend a transcooler that did the job , good quality and easy installation

- What size injectors are usually used/needed with BPU ( fmic,exhaust, high flow turbo, fuel pump). Will there be any issues with tuning if going to large (would 550cc Nismo's suffice?disdvantages going with 1000cc's?)

- What computer management can we auto guys use? I know standalone is out of the question , is the eManage adequate? What about the SAFC2?

- Am I better of going with an eManage as opposed to getting the ecu tuned my Toshi

My Goal is to get a reliable 240rwkw at about 16psi on a high flowed r33 turbo with intake/exhaust, injectors , fuel pump and emanage.

Edited by tripsteady
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436706-the-automatic-thread-questions/
Share on other sites

With a shift kit and trans cooler you should be good for around 300kw, other than that the normal supporting mods apply, but you will need to aim a little high, the auto will suck 10% or more of your power output when compared to a manual.

Considering you would need to buy an Emanage Ultimate, plug in or universal loom, map sensor, wire it in then get it tuned, I think Toshi might be your best bet.

With a shift kit and trans cooler you should be good for around 300kw, other than that the normal supporting mods apply, but you will need to aim a little high, the auto will suck 10% or more of your power output when compared to a manual.

Considering you would need to buy an Emanage Ultimate, plug in or universal loom, map sensor, wire it in then get it tuned, I think Toshi might be your best bet.

Cheers.

Oustanding questions :

- Recommended workshop in Sydney to work on Skyline auto tranny's?

- Recommend a transcooler that did the job , good quality and easy installation

- What size injectors are usually used/needed with BPU ( fmic,exhaust, high flow turbo, fuel pump). Will there be any issues with tuning if going to large (would 550cc Nismo's suffice?disdvantages going with 1000cc's?)

No idea, I am in Melbourne. I could suggest a few good places down here, but obviously you will need to search around Sydney for a suitable trans specialist, or simply fit an MV valve body yourself.

Trans cooler- any large (V8) cooler from Autobarn that fits, and has the same barbed connections, 8mm I think.

The other questions are better answered by your tuner, or Toshi in this case. There may be limitations to the stock ecu. Other than that, Bosch 1000's are cheaper than Nismo injectors. (and there are plenty of fake Nismo injectors getting about.)

Pump, get a Walbro 460L at $200.

I destroyed a MV auto box in about 10,000kms. However this was a n/a box that was built up, not the turbo version. They said this is the same but it is not. (For the r34).

I have an aftermarket transmission ecu and a haltech ps2000 for the engine.

Dunno anyone in Sydney - I sent my entire transmission on a pallet to SA for it to go bang when it came back ;). MV can send the items to you or a mechanic though. The actual assembly of the auto transmission is 'easy' - any transmission shop can assemble it and the MV guys are easy to talk to.

I recently installed a Davies Craig Hydra Cool Transmission Cooler (Part No: 678), read more here: Auto Trans Cooler Upgrade

Easy install (although you'll need to remove your front mount first) and seems to work well.

I recently installed a Davies Craig Hydra Cool Transmission Cooler (Part No: 678), read more here: Auto Trans Cooler Upgrade

Easy install (although you'll need to remove your front mount first) and seems to work well.

ended up buying this for $139 at supercheap

Got my rocker cover gasket kit from kudo motosports (lol all the usual r33 failings have befallen me - coils went - replaced with splitfires , exhaust manifold studs snapped - replaced with uprated toyota ones ....and now my cam covers are leaking....)

Also got a walboro gs342 pump from kudo with kit.

Going get a service , coolant flush and replace the plugs , should be good enough for Toshi should tune after all of the above is installed.

Does anyone know that if i would also need to get the rocker cover washer set as well for $99 as the fix for the usual cam cover leakage that the rb25 suffers?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-cam-rocker-cover-washer-set-genuine-nissan-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts25-gts4-gtst-r33-gts-gts25-gts25t-gts4-r34-gtr-p-627.html

Everything toyota is better lol, higher quality materials used. My nissanhead engine builder mate even agrees. Broken exhaust studs not common on toyotas but seems expected on nissans after a while.

*easy to replace

Why are the Toyota studs better? The nissan ones lasted a fair while!

I wouldn't worry about the rocket cover washers. worse car scenario they are ready to replace at a later date.

The toyota ones are rated as much stronger, the Nissan ones did last a fair while but the ones I put in will last the life of the car. Well Id prefer all oil leaks to be fixed before I do any sort of tune.

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok guys , need some advice....

Should I :

1. Go with the Toshi's road and dyno tune (just with a front mount , pod filter , fuel pump and boost controller) for engine reponse

OR

2. Buy a high flow turbo , buy z32 afm and buy 550cc injectors and then get Toshi to tune.

Would it be better for me to buy these parts first and then get Toshi to tune a bit later on or to not buy injectors or afm and just do normal tune with him?

Disadvantage with the second option is that I would have to wait another month or two longer to recoup funds but at least then I dont have to tune twice!

Don't do something that needs a tune, then drive around while you save up. Save up what you need for the physical work AND the tune then do it all together.

Oh yeah , id never do that. I did that with my last car...biggest noob mistake ever. Built engine - TRD cams, honed bored , MHG etc and then ran the stock ecu like an idiot. Spun a bearing in under 1000km

More importantly, best tuning options? Want to go above 220rwkw so Safc is not an option and to use emanage you have to remap the ecu first- so have to remap ecu - buy emanage and then tune emanage - quite an expensive exercise

Toshi only has manual ecu's left....he seems like he knows hes stuff though so I'll be buying all the parts and hold of installing it until I can figure out what kind of tune to do with him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...