Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been there...

Big single exhaust on a vg30, wideband in tail showed 11.5:1. Single cyl running way lean due to injector not flowing however being masked by the other 5.

Yeah this is right. If using a single wideband then you have to remember that there are 6 cylinders feeding the one, and you can have 5 really rich and 1 lean cylinder and the wideband will tell a story somewhere in the middle

Change ecus? Could be a nistune fault?

in what way? If they are having to pull out timing to stop detonation I can't see how our why the ecu would add timing and make it ping. If anything the ecu would pull more timing.

The thing to check that had been suggested is what timing out is actually running with a light on the dyno during the pull. As I suggested on the first page, If the cas isn't giving a clean signal the ecu could "lose track" of where the actual position of the engine is and therefore fire at the wrong position. Nistune can log what timing is being run, and that shows up if timing is being pulled (or added) from what was expected, but the end result has to be checked with a timing light, during the run.

I'm with you on that Ben.

1. Physical check of the ignition timing, during the run. And have a spare CAS handy to try as a replacement anyway.

2. Physical check of cam timing, using degree wheel. If the head has been skimmed or block decked, I would not accept that lining up the timing marks would suffice. Previous comments indicate that the cam timing was checked properly.

Nothing wrong with current turbo, it is big enough for 400rwkws+ on E85.

The power tread seems to be very similar to my KIA sportage, it is a high comp 10:1 motor how ever. Didn't like timing but still took more then the OP's R34. Fitted a couple of turbochargers on it, and larger turbochargers do result in a slight power increase every time.

The new turbocharger is for the XR6 BA engines, bigger in both larger compressor and turbine. I think it will do 530rwkws on my car. I don't have much time on it currently. But following the turbo size to power tread, it should be sitting at 350~370rwkws mark on OP's car. It is not the right way, how ever is a possibly solution on getting more HP.

fit a new decent intercooler setup, if this fails remove the timing belt and bottom pulley and re-set timing correctly.

sometimes they can be a bitch to get right, i once gained 80rwkw from re-doing the timing that was already "correct"

  • Like 1

If the bottom timing marker is showing TDC but the pistons are either side of TDC, there are problems that need rectifying.

Likewise if there is a misalignment error between cam timing marks, you won't see the valve at full lift when it is supposed to be.

A suggestion early in this thread was to bypass the I/C and run something simple outside the car to trial. That 180 degree bend for return flow piping can't be good, although it's hard to see that being the cause of all problems.

Double or triple checking the timing setup costs only time, changing the I/C and piping costs parts and time.

I like hypergears suggestion!! :)

As for cam timing, I noticed the suggestions of using a degree wheel...

Use a degree wheel for what?

Does ANYBODY out there have the standard OEM camshaft timing specifications?

IO/IC/EO/EC & LSA for advertised AND @.050" specs??

If not then a degree wheel is useless...

The only way the cam timing is out on this engine is if nissan cut the key way in the wrong place... (highly unlikely)

Please stop wasting time with suggestions of cam timing!

Thank you! :)

Here's the thing. Pop #1 plug out and make sure that the piston is at TDC when the mark on the pulley says it is. And don't pretend that it's not possible for this to go wrong. Balancers have been known to slip.

Once you have done that, you can then start to have some faith that when the marks on the cam pulleys line up when they're supposed that they are doing it ACTUALLY when they're supposed to.

I like hypergears suggestion!! :)

As for cam timing, I noticed the suggestions of using a degree wheel...

Use a degree wheel for what?

Does ANYBODY out there have the standard OEM camshaft timing specifications?

IO/IC/EO/EC & LSA for advertised AND @.050" specs??

If not then a degree wheel is useless...

The only way the cam timing is out on this engine is if nissan cut the key way in the wrong place... (highly unlikely)

Please stop wasting time with suggestions of cam timing!

Thank you! :)

Cam timing is also affected when the head and block are skimmed , as the distance is shorter the timing is retarded.

LOL

GTSBoy, I think you need to invest in a leap frog...

They are a wonderful device that makes learning to read a breeze... they have all different age groups available so im sure you'll find one to suit you...

For the rest who can already read,

CAM TIMING IS NOT THE ISSUE!!!!!!

I know this cause it has been checked, double checked and then triple checked by a few people, using the correct equipment. Including the engine builder himself, who happens be be me!

This is the idea of this thread, to brain storm ideas, not be ridiculed over basic items...

We have a few more tricks up our sleeve to try, but my gut is pointing to an electrical issue, the car is just too on song to be mechanical...

Although it is not being ruled out!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...