Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And what would you expect the plugs to look like on ethanol anyway? The shit would evaporate before you got the plug out. It's hard enough to read plugs on petrol since all the lead was removed.

Plugs looked fine, and were not causing misfire. No melting, or signs of DET damage.

The DET was picked up with a knockbox setup that Trent has been proficient with for 5+ years, I am sure he has heard more knock than any of us... Amplified 100 times over. :P

Very hard to prove without climbing into the cylinder at full noise. Considering the engine is brand new, I doubt there is any carbon buildup causing pre ignition, sharp edges in the quench perhaps, but I don't think Tony wants to rip the head off unless all other avenues are exhausted. (Plus we need to give the engine builder the benefit of the doubt, I am sure he knows what he is doing.)

What other causes of pre-ignition can be ruled out with the head on? Remember, this is happening on ethanol and 98...

More often then not its something stupidly simple....

How about the water temp sensor? Could that play a role in perhaps a timing correction table based on what temps or something??

highly doubt that is, Trent will know straight away.. you will see it in Nistune if the temp correction table is used as it lights up green.

I would recommend plugging up an EGT into each runner (one at a time I guess to keep cost down) and data log the EGT per cylinder for the same run/conditions 6x times - this would still be cheaper than pulling a head off

what about the effect of having a polished ported intake side, apparently this can be a bad thing and cause knock?

"The carburetor or the fuel injectors spray fuel droplets into the air in the manifold. Due to electrostatic forces some of the fuel will form into pools along the walls of the manifold, or may converge into larger droplets in the air. Both actions are undesirable because they create inconsistencies in the air-fuel ratio. Turbulence in the intake causes forces of uneven proportions in varying vectors to be applied to the fuel, aiding in atomization. Better atomization allows for a more complete burn of all the fuel and helps reduce engine knock by enlarging the flame front. To achieve this turbulence it is a common practice to leave the surfaces of the intake and intake ports in the cylinder head rough and unpolished."

picture of the droplets in my manifold i saw when removed

post-70965-0-36769200-1391821380_thumb.jpg

post-70965-0-63159500-1391821449_thumb.jpg

Edited by AngryRB

I would start back at basics.

Throw in another set of injectors or get the old ones flow tested, one lazy one and its DET city.

Make sure none of the injector wiring is a issue, right back to the ECU plug, one injector not opening enough or long enough will lean out the engine on one cylinder, enough to cause det so check wiring and plugs.

Run a test with 1 or 2 heat ranges cooler spark plugs, see what it does after the injectors have been tested, dont just test with another set of plugs of the same heat range, issue could be cylinder temps, im guessing there is no EGT probe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...