Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I *think* from memory - going back 4 years+ since the car last has been on a dyno, I have a 14psi spring and when straight from the gate without a boost controller it's in that ball park.

so if your on 19psi and hes on 14psi, what should he be making with average to slightly pulled back timing? 230-240kw?

Do you think that I might have made the power if the boost had held up? Looking At his dyno graph his boost held to redline. His afr is all 12+ I'm on 11.6.

Afrs isn't a big issue he's just kept it rich because he's having a knock issue obviously... And 10kws or so low could easy just be a dyno variance...But yes your boost should hold 18psi or close and even on a low dyno should pull over 250kw...if it's leaning out maybe its not getting enough fuel...Have your filters been replaced, is your pump.good etc

first get rid of the microleb, get an ecu with electronic boost controller wired in and that will fix the drop off up top.

put a std exhaust manifold back on, weld gate to rear housing or get internally gated rear.

all you had to really do was change turbo and injectors.

i made 230kw @14psi with std manifold, 3076r .63i/w, link g4, walbro 255 and std injectors.

Do you think that I might have made the power if the boost had held up? Looking At his dyno graph his boost held to redline. His afr is all 12+ I'm on 11.6.

Its been well proven, on 18psi it will/should push 270-280kw's,

why couldn't the boost controller be used to make it hold 18? Did the tuner just do a casual job with it or are there reasons for the afr,14psi etc

Afrs isn't a big issue he's just kept it rich because he's having a knock issue obviously... And 10kws or so low could easy just be a dyno variance...But yes your boost should hold 18psi or close and even on a low dyno should pull over 250kw...if it's leaning out maybe its not getting enough fuel...Have your filters been replaced, is your pump.good etc

Correct, had some small knock stuff with lower AFRs, so this was done for safety and longevity, with the slightly higher compression motor temps are higher.

Driftsquad look at the following and why your boost tappers off.

The afr was kept at 11.5 - 11.6 as it's a drift car and it's only ever drivin when it gets trashed. So just a safer zone. Fuel pump is brand new 044 replaced on the day. Fuel pressure stays at 60psi all the way to redline.

The controller was set with gain not in auto. Would a boost leak create this kind of drop? It's not so simple to just put a standard manifold back on. Cooler piping exhaust piping gate piping and rear housing all made to suit.

My question is what could be holding my boost back? Shit boost controller? Blitz ebc duel,

Is the reason for the poor power because of not holding boost to redline?

Possible boostleak?

Tied motor?

Has anyone got a dyno of a microtech with the same type of setup?

Edited by DriftSquad

The afr was kept at 11.5 - 11.6 as it's a drift car and it's only ever drivin when it gets trashed. So just a safer zone. Fuel pump is brand new 044 replaced on the day. Fuel pressure stays at 60psi all the way to redline.

The controller was set with gain not in auto. Would a boost leak create this kind of drop? It's not so simple to just put a standard manifold back on. Cooler piping exhaust piping gate piping and rear housing all made to suit.

My question is what could be holding my boost back? Shit boost controller? Blitz ebc duel,

Is the reason for the poor power because of not holding boost to redline?

Possible boostleak?

Tied motor?

Has anyone got a dyno of a microtech with the same type of setup?

Blitz DUAL is a fantastic boost controller, seems like your tuner has no idea how to set it up, hece it's dropping. If you hold the left button down for 3 seconds, there's a GAIN menu.. increase that till your boost holds flat, you will need to drop your duty cycle down.

Also on the back of the controller there's a setting to put it on EWG OR IWG.. I hope you've set that correctly too.

AFRs mean nothing compared to ignition timing as I've mentined before.. you can have a lazy arse flat as shit low timing map with perfect ruler style AFRs..

Like I said, post up your microtech's timing map, or even the tune file.. I can put all those numbers into a three dimensional table for you and we can analyse it.. (sometihng micro ice age cannot do)

Get a power FC and book it in with Gavin at Autotech, he knows an RB inside out and you can watch it on the dyno while he shows you whats happening with it.

Edited by AngryRB

Blitz DUAL is a fantastic boost controller, seems like your tuner has no idea how to set it up, hece it's dropping. If you hold the left button down for 3 seconds, there's a GAIN menu.. increase that till your boost holds flat, you will need to drop your duty cycle down.

Also on the back of the controller there's a setting to put it on EWG OR IWG.. I hope you've set that correctly too.

AFRs mean nothing compared to ignition timing as I've mentined before.. you can have a lazy arse flat as shit low timing map with perfect ruler style AFRs..

Like I said, post up your microtech's timing map, or even the tune file.. I can put all those numbers into a three dimensional table for you and we can analyse it.. (sometihng micro ice age cannot do)

I'll double check everything. Roughly what should the gain be? Iv asked for the dyno print out I don't have it yet but I'll also ask if I can have the tune file. And see what he says. Attached picture is the one I have it's the silver one in the right

post-22485-0-17969900-1391912548_thumb.jpg

Edited by DriftSquad

yeah.... lets blame the tuner.... the tune is shit. that particular tuner has one of the fastest skylines in the world. lets just say he cannot tune for shit.

ffs. get a clue.

  • Like 2

yeah.... lets blame the tuner.... the tune is shit. that particular tuner has one of the fastest skylines in the world. lets just say he cannot tune for shit.

ffs. get a clue.

ouch... well to be fair why was the boost controller not used? just cause someone has a big reputation doesn't mean they'll work there ass off for everyone, just saying..

check for boost leaks using the old baked bean can trick and use an air compressor to pressurize the intake...squirt all joins and hoses with soapy water and look for bubbles....you might be dropping boost at high boost because a hose is splitting at high boost.... just a word of warning...be careful how you cap the intake...i nearly took my hand off with a baked bean can when i was too liberal with the air compressor....(2bar)

I'm not sure of the baked been trick. But today I made a 4" PVC cap and drilled and glued and airline fitting to it. Tomorrow I'm going to pump her up and check for leaks. I tow my car 1 hour to mark because I believe he knows his stuff. That's not to say the boost controller is setup correctly or not.

I just want to get to the bottom of my huge power loss and boost problems so I can get out on the track again. I'll post my results after to boost leak test.

Do I have to block anything else off?

I'll double check everything. Roughly what should the gain be? Iv asked for the dyno print out I don't have it yet but I'll also ask if I can have the tune file. And see what he says. Attached picture is the one I have it's the silver one in the right

I've seen even tuners setup boost controllers wrong, I can give you first hand encounters of people who have paid tuners and had them totally fuark up settings.

Anyhow,

When setting up your Blitz SBC i Colour, make sure the AC/WG is set to "WG" to begin with. Go into your desired channel and then Boost Setup.. I suggest set it on "AUTO", then set the boost target to 1.3 bar or whatever you want and start with the GAIN on perhaps 10. Then work the gain up still the boost comes on nice and hard and holds till red line.

On auto, it may take a few squirts before it reaches the target boost level as the controller will slowly adjust itself to the boost target.

See if that helps

Thanks for the mate I'll check it all.

I have some updates!

Today I did a boost leak test found 2 big leaks 1 was under the throttle body was nothing attached to the nipple. The other was the rubber joiner that joins the small hard boost line from the boost gauge to the silicone line that goes to the manifold. It was split and fell out of it's fitting.

Then I found 2 small pinholes in the welds of my intercooler piping getting them welded up today. Also slight bubbling from 2 injector seals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...