Rb25 + Gt3076R & Mods, Made Low Power On Dyno Tune Why?

[WYTSKY]

I *think* from memory - going back 4 years+ since the car last has been on a dyno, I have a 14psi spring and when straight from the gate without a boost controller it's in that ball park.

[DriftSquad]

so if your on 19psi and hes on 14psi, what should he be making with average to slightly pulled back timing? 230-240kw?

Do you think that I might have made the power if the boost had held up? Looking At his dyno graph his boost held to redline. His afr is all 12+ I'm on 11.6.

[ARTZ]

Afrs isn't a big issue he's just kept it rich because he's having a knock issue obviously... And 10kws or so low could easy just be a dyno variance...But yes your boost should hold 18psi or close and even on a low dyno should pull over 250kw...if it's leaning out maybe its not getting enough fuel...Have your filters been replaced, is your pump.good etc

[robbo_rb180]

first get rid of the microleb, get an ecu with electronic boost controller wired in and that will fix the drop off up top.

put a std exhaust manifold back on, weld gate to rear housing or get internally gated rear.

all you had to really do was change turbo and injectors.

i made 230kw @14psi with std manifold, 3076r .63i/w, link g4, walbro 255 and std injectors.

[Ben C34]

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Edited February 7, 2014 by superben

[AngryRB]

Do you think that I might have made the power if the boost had held up? Looking At his dyno graph his boost held to redline. His afr is all 12+ I'm on 11.6.

Its been well proven, on 18psi it will/should push 270-280kw's,

why couldn't the boost controller be used to make it hold 18? Did the tuner just do a casual job with it or are there reasons for the afr,14psi etc

[WYTSKY]

Afrs isn't a big issue he's just kept it rich because he's having a knock issue obviously... And 10kws or so low could easy just be a dyno variance...But yes your boost should hold 18psi or close and even on a low dyno should pull over 250kw...if it's leaning out maybe its not getting enough fuel...Have your filters been replaced, is your pump.good etc

Correct, had some small knock stuff with lower AFRs, so this was done for safety and longevity, with the slightly higher compression motor temps are higher.

Driftsquad look at the following and why your boost tappers off.

[DriftSquad]

The afr was kept at 11.5 - 11.6 as it's a drift car and it's only ever drivin when it gets trashed. So just a safer zone. Fuel pump is brand new 044 replaced on the day. Fuel pressure stays at 60psi all the way to redline.

The controller was set with gain not in auto. Would a boost leak create this kind of drop? It's not so simple to just put a standard manifold back on. Cooler piping exhaust piping gate piping and rear housing all made to suit.

My question is what could be holding my boost back? Shit boost controller? Blitz ebc duel,

Is the reason for the poor power because of not holding boost to redline?

Possible boostleak?

Tied motor?

Has anyone got a dyno of a microtech with the same type of setup?

Edited February 8, 2014 by DriftSquad

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

The afr was kept at 11.5 - 11.6 as it's a drift car and it's only ever drivin when it gets trashed. So just a safer zone. Fuel pump is brand new 044 replaced on the day. Fuel pressure stays at 60psi all the way to redline.

The controller was set with gain not in auto. Would a boost leak create this kind of drop? It's not so simple to just put a standard manifold back on. Cooler piping exhaust piping gate piping and rear housing all made to suit.

My question is what could be holding my boost back? Shit boost controller? Blitz ebc duel,

Is the reason for the poor power because of not holding boost to redline?

Possible boostleak?

Tied motor?

Has anyone got a dyno of a microtech with the same type of setup?

Blitz DUAL is a fantastic boost controller, seems like your tuner has no idea how to set it up, hece it's dropping. If you hold the left button down for 3 seconds, there's a GAIN menu.. increase that till your boost holds flat, you will need to drop your duty cycle down.

Also on the back of the controller there's a setting to put it on EWG OR IWG.. I hope you've set that correctly too.

AFRs mean nothing compared to ignition timing as I've mentined before.. you can have a lazy arse flat as shit low timing map with perfect ruler style AFRs..

Like I said, post up your microtech's timing map, or even the tune file.. I can put all those numbers into a three dimensional table for you and we can analyse it.. (sometihng micro ice age cannot do)

[AngryRB]

Get a power FC and book it in with Gavin at Autotech, he knows an RB inside out and you can watch it on the dyno while he shows you whats happening with it.

Edited February 9, 2014 by AngryRB

[DriftSquad]

Blitz DUAL is a fantastic boost controller, seems like your tuner has no idea how to set it up, hece it's dropping. If you hold the left button down for 3 seconds, there's a GAIN menu.. increase that till your boost holds flat, you will need to drop your duty cycle down.

Also on the back of the controller there's a setting to put it on EWG OR IWG.. I hope you've set that correctly too.

AFRs mean nothing compared to ignition timing as I've mentined before.. you can have a lazy arse flat as shit low timing map with perfect ruler style AFRs..

Like I said, post up your microtech's timing map, or even the tune file.. I can put all those numbers into a three dimensional table for you and we can analyse it.. (sometihng micro ice age cannot do)

I'll double check everything. Roughly what should the gain be? Iv asked for the dyno print out I don't have it yet but I'll also ask if I can have the tune file. And see what he says. Attached picture is the one I have it's the silver one in the right

Edited February 9, 2014 by DriftSquad

[Guilt-Toy]

yeah.... lets blame the tuner.... the tune is shit. that particular tuner has one of the fastest skylines in the world. lets just say he cannot tune for shit.

ffs. get a clue.

[jet_r31]

been waiting for that^^

cheers

darren

[AngryRB]

yeah.... lets blame the tuner.... the tune is shit. that particular tuner has one of the fastest skylines in the world. lets just say he cannot tune for shit.

ffs. get a clue.

ouch... well to be fair why was the boost controller not used? just cause someone has a big reputation doesn't mean they'll work there ass off for everyone, just saying..

[WMDC35]

people always expect problems to be ironed out with the tune, not saying that happened here but there's no info on the 'restriction', what was happening?

[Badgaz]

check for boost leaks using the old baked bean can trick and use an air compressor to pressurize the intake...squirt all joins and hoses with soapy water and look for bubbles....you might be dropping boost at high boost because a hose is splitting at high boost.... just a word of warning...be careful how you cap the intake...i nearly took my hand off with a baked bean can when i was too liberal with the air compressor....(2bar)

[DriftSquad]

I'm not sure of the baked been trick. But today I made a 4" PVC cap and drilled and glued and airline fitting to it. Tomorrow I'm going to pump her up and check for leaks. I tow my car 1 hour to mark because I believe he knows his stuff. That's not to say the boost controller is setup correctly or not.

I just want to get to the bottom of my huge power loss and boost problems so I can get out on the track again. I'll post my results after to boost leak test.

Do I have to block anything else off?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I'll double check everything. Roughly what should the gain be? Iv asked for the dyno print out I don't have it yet but I'll also ask if I can have the tune file. And see what he says. Attached picture is the one I have it's the silver one in the right

I've seen even tuners setup boost controllers wrong, I can give you first hand encounters of people who have paid tuners and had them totally fuark up settings.

Anyhow,

When setting up your Blitz SBC i Colour, make sure the AC/WG is set to "WG" to begin with. Go into your desired channel and then Boost Setup.. I suggest set it on "AUTO", then set the boost target to 1.3 bar or whatever you want and start with the GAIN on perhaps 10. Then work the gain up still the boost comes on nice and hard and holds till red line.

On auto, it may take a few squirts before it reaches the target boost level as the controller will slowly adjust itself to the boost target.

See if that helps

[DriftSquad]

Thanks for the mate I'll check it all.

I have some updates!

Today I did a boost leak test found 2 big leaks 1 was under the throttle body was nothing attached to the nipple. The other was the rubber joiner that joins the small hard boost line from the boost gauge to the silicone line that goes to the manifold. It was split and fell out of it's fitting.

Then I found 2 small pinholes in the welds of my intercooler piping getting them welded up today. Also slight bubbling from 2 injector seals.

[scotty nm35]

Makes for easy leak detection that's for sure. What pressure did you run it up to?

If you can't find the injector Orings I can probably help.