Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ummm pretty sure the STI gearboxes are stronger then the EVO's and there are many STI's with exhaust and tune making approx 200awkw.....

Just don't know what they are like reliability wise. Pretty sure the EVO's engine is a lot better.

Edited by JETGTR

Lol umm no sti gearboxes are made of glass good luck pushing 200+kw through 1 lol.

I make about 260-270kw with the stock evo 9 turbo with 26psi on E85 & im still using the stock clutch in my evo with no dramas.

Ummm pretty sure the STI gearboxes are stronger then the EVO's and there are many STI's with exhaust and tune making approx 200awkw.....

Just don't know what they are like reliability wise. Pretty sure the EVO's engine is a lot better.

Yeh plenty of guys punching 300kw with the stock 6 speed evo 8/9 box anything over that and it gets hairy. But the evo 7, 5 speed box is super strong and few guys pushing over 350kw with them, very common upgrade for the 8/9 guys. As for power... evo with exhaust, intake and tune (on the stock ecu) will get 220kw on pulp... add in injectors and pump and you can have 250-260kw on E85 all day....

There is a reason you see SO many evos as track cars and bugger all STIs

if you want a cheap dedicated track car to learn in buy a under 2l IPRA car, or like Chris and Mark did, go the MX5

Already built, easy to find, cheap, easy on tyres and pads.

Just out of curiosity, what U2L IPRA would you recommend?

Their lap times seem impressive, what sort of coin would be required to be competitive in that class?

Has anyone here driven a FWD race car? Are they fun to drive?

Yes and yes.

Hondas seem to be the choice at present, and their double wishbone suspension makes them easy to tune, so they're about the most neutral FWD out there.

I regularly hose RWD guys in gravel khanacrosses, but that's where the FWD's really shine. The one time I took to Lakeside in my gravel car I was miles off the pace (118KW at the flywheel and gravel spec setup will do that) but I had an absolute ball.

IPRA might not be the best source of a "cheap / fast" car unless you actually want to compete in a race series (in which case, the by all means go for it). A good, competitive U2L IPRA car will generally cost somewhere between $20-30k. Without the restrictions in IPRA you could build something faster for much less (thanks to the IPRA tax). Cheaper cars do come up fairly regularly though, and I've seen several sell for under $10k (not lap record holders, but pretty quick and plenty fun nonetheless)

If you can score a K powered EG or EK Civic, or DC2 Integra set up for track work then you will do very well, and plenty of potential to go extremely fast. A decent K20 engine will make well over 200hp at the wheels, probably closer to 250 (don't quote me on that - I haven't actually been involved in any K20 race engine dyno sessions).

Edited by warps

If I had my time again I'd be going a Honda.

Most of the u2l guys are faster than the over 2l guys.

There were a couple old integra type r's which used to be races in prod touring years ago. I know one was advertised for 15k with spares

You know what?

THIS would be a great car and would give a fair bit of other stuff a run for its money

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/mirage/id/11957/Default.aspx

good price however being in WA getting it to where you are would cost a bit.

my 2c..

I own a no expense spared R32 GTR that has never delivered on it's promise, always one thing after the other.

Last year I undertook building a cheap R33 GTST because I was getting shitty about never finishing, never starting or never being happy with my GTR.

I've got to say, I've done more laps in my GTST in the last 6months than I have in my GTR over the last 6 years.

Over the weekend my R33 competed in the Wakefield 300, qualified 12th in the wet and finished the race near last, but finished.

My GTR wouldn't have made it to half way. We split a power steering hose so lost probably 10laps trying to locate and replace the hose before rejoining the race.

Had to do an extra fuel stop also as only a standard tank, so there's another 5laps down.

The car is fairly basic, we ran on 14psi 98ron with about 330hp, and would've run perfect all day except the split hose. Tyres were shagged from mid way but no complaints here.

I've got to say it's far more rewarding/enjoyable finishing a race near last than not finishing at all. I towed her home last night and have practically nothing to do to her before taking her out again.

I've never done that in my GTR, it goes from the track to the mechanics, back to the track again. Massive pain in the ass!

My tip, buy/build a car that will finish the day. It's far more enjoyable than having a fast car that breaks.

I've never done that in my GTR, it goes from the track to the mechanics, back to the track again. Massive pain in the ass!

Out of curiosity, what are the main reasons why you think the GTST is a more reliable platform? Or rather, what were the issues that were causing you hassles with the GTR that you don't find on the GTST?

My GTST is way less stressed than my GTR.

Try 330hp (in W300 tune) vs 670hp GTR.

Power breaks things.

Also, for those that say a GTR is a more rewarding drive than an Evo, that's very true, however a real wheel drive car is more rewarding again.

670HP?

that there is your problem. You shouldn't need near that much power as an amatuer racer. A good motor with a set of -7's or -5's will post good times and you won't brake the shit out of it. As soon as you even try to match that kind of power in a gts-t itl flip it's shit. Same with an EVO. You are talking more than double the standard power. No car can take that. Be realistic.

670HP?

that there is your problem. You shouldn't need near that much power as an amatuer racer. A good motor with a set of -7's or -5's will post good times and you won't brake the shit out of it. As soon as you even try to match that kind of power in a gts-t itl flip it's shit. Same with an EVO. You are talking more than double the standard power. No car can take that. Be realistic.

It's a time attack car, they're meant to break :no: . I just don't like that it does...

670HP?

that there is your problem. You shouldn't need near that much power as an amatuer racer. A good motor with a set of -7's or -5's will post good times and you won't brake the shit out of it. As soon as you even try to match that kind of power in a gts-t itl flip it's shit. Same with an EVO. You are talking more than double the standard power. No car can take that. Be realistic.

What do you think a halfway sorted RB26 with -5's makes

It's a time attack car, they're meant to break :no: . I just don't like that it does...

Don't build a "time attack" car and get upset when it breakes. Comes with the territory. Same with people that throw -5's on a standard motor, squeeze 400kw out of it and then cry when the motor gives out? Logic makes no sense.

All the so called "Oil issues" Cost fk all considering if you are tracking a car i would expect the motor to come out first for a forged bottom end anyway. The people that have these issues are the ones that skimp out and want to build one on the cheap. Pull the motor out, forged bottom end, new oil pump, etc.. You shouldn't have any major issues ever again. With a good safe tune it should be able to be driven to and from the track.

"Never half ass two things, whole ass one thing"

-Ron Swanson

/endrant

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...