Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cool. Next time I do an upgrade I'll be sure to research the Nistune forum thoroughly. :rolleyes:

Haha

I'm not trying to stir shit.

I'm pointing out that it's common knowledge that the other coils can have issues with high dwell.

Now it appears these LS3 coils don't have the same problem.

Not that that means I trust his experience with my engine, I still keep the dwell to 4 or below.

My D585's ran out of grunt at 830rwhp on 4ms dwell. I have a feeling they are china copies however

Still not complaining they are amazing coils for the price I paid.

This has been my experience with the Non-OEM copies.

  • 3 weeks later...

I bought the RB26/LS2 coil brackets and springs from Rick at Mojo Performance recently and finished installing it over the weekend.

His brackets really are mint - saves you the hassle of having to make up brackets if you want a decent looking finish. I did the wiring myself, wasn't particularly difficult given there's a few guides out there on the net but was pretty fiddly at times. The coil cover should fit back over aswell which is good.

Anyway, recommend having a look at the above link if you're wanting to do something similar - just makes life so much easier!

How much did he charger you for the mounting plate?

$175 + shipping if anyone was interested. It's in the states and comes with springs and bolts to mount the coils. Probably wouldn't work for me since I'm doing mine a little different.

20140726_155638_zpsaaxfqem3.jpg

IMG_20140726_155937_zpsx7s0e4d4.jpg

20140731_204225_zpswbvugyn5.jpg

Going to weld tabs onto the oem plate and bolt them to the coils on both sides.

IMG_20140731_205102_zpsrkwuljp2.jpg

I considered doing COP but it was too much effort and you still have the coils sitting down in the valley getting nice and hot. I ended up getting Hummer coils from the US and connected them with some Eagle leads from autobarn. Still yet to be tuned to increase dwell but even at the stock setting its a vast improvement over the Splitfires I had before running 19psi.

Made a flat mount for them out of some aluminium sheet. Highly recommended upgrade!

IMAG0506-small_zpsb871b52d.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

$175 + shipping if anyone was interested. It's in the states and comes with springs and bolts to mount the coils. Probably wouldn't work for me since I'm doing mine a little different.

20140726_155638_zpsaaxfqem3.jpg

does anyone know where to get the coil to spark plug connectors in VIC? or lastly ebay?

Edited by Dan_J

yup stay away from the metal heat sink ones if possible i had a few come in from other places with detonation issues and it was because they were tuned with too much dwell.... its a documented fact they have cost guys engines.

we always recommend running the;

C1512
D514A
OEM part 12573190

and are able to run low dwell and up to 1.5mm gaps with boost.

​If you do choose to run with the inferior truck ones just make sure you keep the dwell in check.

Cut and paste from my nistune post

The Coils to get are:

C1512
D514A
OEM part 12573190

These are all part numbers for the same denso coil. Lots of testing has been done on all the variants and this one does not false fire (effectively uncontrolled added advance) at higher dwell levels like the others. There are plenty of documented engine losses due to this artificial advance (sometimes upto 20 degrees)

They retail at $280 for 8 so you will have 4 or 2 left over either way. We have made over 1000rwhp with them and they are ultra reliable.

We just finished a GTR with nistune and had no issues at around 500rwkw with these coils and modified nistune dwell settings.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHEV-LS2-LS3 ... add&_uhb=1

should add the listing i linked to are infact genuine GM not copies. The non genuine ones are nowhere near as good and we have had missfires with as little as 0.6mm plug gap.

From what i've read the D585s (which have heat sinks, also known as the truck ones) produce the most spark power - is there any danger running them if the dwell is sensible? In what way are they inferior to the D514As?

With genuine OR decent aftermarket LS coils.. what spark gap & boost are you guys running?

I'm running Splitfires with 0.65mm gap at 3.5ms dwell and they're blowing out at 1.5bar+ when warm..

I started off at only 2.8ms dwell but kept on adding more to stop the misfiring - however it seems to start misfiring after a 20 minute drive even with high dwell. I don't want to push them any higher in case they fail.

I'm really considering converting to LS coils (that was the initial plan but got lazy).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...