Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a fresh built forged 25 in my 32. Standard head expect for super tec valve springs and tomei 264 cams WITH vct operated via a window switch.

The car has a very noticeable 'tick' to it, it's very audible at idle. My tuner told me it was the window switch which seemed strange?

Could it be a lifter? The tuner also noticed it was super noisy on first start but slowly quietened once it started to bed in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441469-fresh-built-rb25det-lifter-noise/
Share on other sites

How thoroughly were the lifters cleaned out during the rebuild and rebled during installation?

Regular (per revolution) ticking will not be the window switch. if it is, and it is cycling that often, it will probably kill your VCT solenoid quick smart, so you'd want to look into that pronto. But you could check it yourself in 5 seconds by disconnecting the solenoid. If it keeps ticking, then it's not the solenoid changing state.

If the ticking is coming from a valve/lifter, you should be able to use a hose stethoscope to locate the noise to one part of the engine or another. Surprisingly useful tool is a 2' length of garden hose.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

A mate had a similar thing happen when he built a 25DET with forged pistons. He described the sound as "piston slap" i had never heard the term before and have not heard of it since. His noise was only at idle and would become noticably quieter as the car warmed to running temp.

Yuh, piston slap is exactly that. Forged pistons expand more than cast as they warm up, so the cold clearances are greater and they whack the sides of the bores a bit when cold.

Only if they're shit!

A good piston should require no more than 2 thou piston to bore.

I'm feeling your pain dude....I have massive loud top end ticking noise for the first 30 seconds of cold start up... My motor had no lifter noise prior to Nizzpro re building it after I blew the head gasket. (It drove and held Boost perfectly with milkshake oil)

Yeah my nismo 740s are alot louder then my old 555s. Sometimes think its lifter tick but everytime I look its injectors

I spent ages cleaning my lifters, pressed out the old oil, soaked them in petrol for a few days then washed them in a parts washer. Cleaned all the stuff off then chucked them in oil for about 3 weeks while I was waiting to get the head back (and pumped them to get some oil into them)

Soakingdisassembled lifters in solvent or thinners works wonders, then scrub them with a toothbrush to remove all oil varnish. Make sure they are fully collapsed when reassembling. Seems to let them fill with oil much easier when you have the first startup.

OP you will know easily enough the difference between lifters and injectors by the noise they make.

My injectors do tick, but it's not that either.

It's a very loud, very crisp 'tick'.

Going back to engine builder tomorrow, my tuner keeps telling me to basically not worry about it, after 1000k's it'll 'bed in?' Sounds dodgy to me, a lifter should bed in as soon as its got oil pressure 10 seconds after first start up.

On another note car made 270kw on run in tune at 15 psi with a spike to 17-18. 681nm too. Can't wait to sort this problem and get the final tune done with 23-24psi

Do as suggested. Rev the engine and then when the revs are dropping off throttle and there is no injection occuring that will completly rule out injectors

it's not the injectors

It does it worse when cold, accel or decel it does it. It's a loud (audible from 20m's away over exhaust sound with bonnet shut) on idle does about 2 ticks per second.

I can head my injectors (sound like a 72 tooth ratchet) much more frequent and quiet.

I'm convinced this is a fked lifter. Going back to engine builder today so he can have a listen. I just hope nothing's damaged my brand new tomei cams

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...