Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Is the GT2835Kai still a good option these days or has it been super-seeded by newer designs?

What power output is reasonable to expect with that turbo?

I currently have a non ball bearing hybrid making 260KW at the wheels.

(on RB25)

So I am remotely thinking about an upgrade to get me into the 300KW region.

Would that be realistic with the GT2835Kai?

Thanks ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441505-hks-gt2835kai-still-a-good-option/
Share on other sites

A GT2835 KAI would be good if you can find a 2835 Pro S turbine housing for it .

In T3 flange and IW from Garrett their GTX3067R is rated at 500 crank horsepower , no ones tried one AFAIK on an RB25 yet and is possibly similar power wise to a GT2835 Pro S 0.68 AR .

GT3076Rs are tried and proven 300+ RWKW if the engine and exhaust is up to it .

A .

Thanks for the feedback.

The easiest option for me is a drop in replacement since this is what I have right now.

So I wanted to know if the KAI would get me towards 300KW.

Going E85 is not really an option since the car is used as daily ride and E85 is not that common in the UK.

Of course I could throw in a bigger turbo on hi/low mount and make 300KW.

But that would constitute ripping my current set-up apart.

Yes, my car is set-up for 300KW (4 Inch / 3.5, Poncams, TomeiFuel Pump, 555 Injectors, Blitz FMIC etc.)

I am making the current 260KW at .9 BAR ! so the engine flows very well.

If your making 260kw @ less than 14psi, I'd be winding your existing turbo up to 20-22psi and seeing how close you get.

You'll need to run this sort of boost to crack 300 if you swapped out your turbo for those mentioned anyway looking at various results from others running 300+

If your making 260kw @ less than 14psi, I'd be winding your existing turbo up to 20-22psi and seeing how close you get.

You'll need to run this sort of boost to crack 300 if you swapped out your turbo for those mentioned anyway looking at various results from others running 300+

Yes, but the engine outflows the hybrid-turbo so I can not up the boost.

In other terms:

The turbo can not deliver more flow and is running out of puff.

That's why I am looking into other turbo options.

I never investigated the wastegate but the actuator is set to one bar and the controller .5 bar higher.

The turbo is rated at around 400HP (based on what it can flow) and boost drops gradually since the turbo can not keep up with air demand from the engine.

You can see this on many dyno graphs that boost gradually drops and this is not due to the wastegate.

(though a blown open gate is always an option)

Boost is meaningless anyhow, it is the mass of air going into the engine which makes power (+ the fuel of course)

Still I will check on the WG but I think that is not the problem, I just need a bigger turbo :)

Believe me, if you can get a stronger spring on the gate the manifold will hold more pressure, meaning the turbo will spin faster and create more boost. This will usually make more power and always add torque.

More preload on the actuator doesn't work as well as a properly selected gate spring. Try and run as close to your desired boost as possible.

A bigger turbo comes with drawbacks. Not saying don't do it, but there are many ways to get more power without changing it.

Yes, but the engine outflows the hybrid-turbo so I can not up the boost.

In other terms:

The turbo can not deliver more flow and is running out of puff.

That's why I am looking into other turbo options.

If you can keep your wastegate closed longer you may make more boost. You say you need airflow not boost but to use your terminology when your boost gauge reads 20 psi that indicates that the turbo has caught up to the flow through the engine - you have no other way of measuring flow unless you have a read out from the maf.

Having said that it is possible that your turbo has indeed run out of puff but check the wastegate boost control first.

If you can keep your wastegate closed longer you may make more boost. You say you need airflow not boost but to use your terminology when your boost gauge reads 20 psi that indicates that the turbo has caught up to the flow through the engine - you have no other way of measuring flow unless you have a read out from the maf.

Having said that it is possible that your turbo has indeed run out of puff but check the wastegate boost control first.

HI!

Misunderstanding:

I did not say I need more airflow not boost, but merely said that it's not boost which makes the power. (since people always say you need such and such boost levels for such and such power)

And of course If my boost goes up the airflow will increase.

I will check the actuator but it is an adjustable one and the preload (of the spring) is pretty heavy.

Btw:

I can read my MAF values (voltage) in real time through Nistune.

This is a direct representation of mass air flow (MAF)

Cheers

Believe me, if you can get a stronger spring on the gate the manifold will hold more pressure, meaning the turbo will spin faster and create more boost. This will usually make more power and always add torque.

More preload on the actuator doesn't work as well as a properly selected gate spring. Try and run as close to your desired boost as possible.

A bigger turbo comes with drawbacks. Not saying don't do it, but there are many ways to get more power without changing it.

Thanks,

Yes, I don't want any more lag that's why I was investigating the ball bearing HKS.

At current I like my setup / engine response and worked long and hard to achieve this.

260KW at the wheels is not bad and the car is fun to drive.

I will check on the actuator just to be 100% certain.

But as said the Turbo is rated at 400HP and I think I simply reached that limit.

I think Simon's suggestion at post #2 made the most sense given the OP is in the UK and not running E85.

Looking at this thread, if the OP's setup consists of bolt-on airflow modifications only (inlet pipes, turbo, FMIC, poncams and exhaust), I'd suggest his dyno might be happier than the typical Australian spec. 260rwkW from 13psi on an RB25 is not something generally seen.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...