Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If this is TRUE, you could sue him for FRAUD and actually put him in jail. Looks as though either he has a man on the ground in Japan making fake auction/ dereg certificates, or he is doing it himself after the fact.

This is WORSE than just ODO tampering if this is truth.

**These are only my opinions, and as this is a public forum, my opinion is just that, an opinion, not gospel**

So 3 million yen = $31,000 AUD

10% GST = $3000

Shipping = $1500

Compliance = $5000

total cost to EL = approx $40,000 !!!!!

You paid $55,000 !!!!!

You do the math......

Cheers

The Baron

  • Like 1

If this is TRUE, you could sue him for FRAUD and actually put him in jail. Looks as though either he has a man on the ground in Japan making fake auction/ dereg certificates, or he is doing it himself after the fact.

This is WORSE than just ODO tampering if this is truth.

**These are only my opinions, and as this is a public forum, my opinion is just that, an opinion, not gospel**

Doesn't EL use the buyers agent Nobu?? You see him in the youtube videos, showing of the car right after his purchased them....

In his more recent videos, his been been moving really quickly past the dash so you don't see the ODO!

Disappointed to see MCM endorsing EL!!

In the auction sheet from dodgy imports it shows the damage on the left sill in front of the rear wheel which is just visible in this pic from first post., that is obviously not on the questionable sheet.post-107339-0-61314300-1396921728_thumb.jpg

In the auction sheet from dodgy imports it shows the damage on the left sill in front of the rear wheel which is just visible in this pic from first post., that is obviously not on the questionable sheet.attachicon.giftmp_post-134006-0-36809100-13967411851639529282.jpg

Which is the kind of damage you get when you graze a kerb while sliding the tail out on a track.......

Cheers

The Baron

So 3 million yen = $31,000 AUD

10% GST = $3000

Shipping = $1500

Compliance = $5000

total cost to EL = approx $40,000 !!!!!

You paid $55,000 !!!!!

You do the math......

Cheers

The Baron

This calculation misses a few things like customs duties. Use the Import Monster or J-Spec import cost calculator for a better estimate. I would say EL's cost is about $46k max - probably a few grand less if he uses one of his own workshops for the compliance.

Edited by dodgyimports

This calculation misses a few things like customs duties. Use the Import Monster or J-Spec import cost calculator for a better estimate. I would say EL's cost is about $46k max - probably a few grand less if he uses one of his own workshops for the compliance.

correct - but rough estimate - EL would not charge 'themselves' 5 K for compliance and GST is usually at reduced cost (nudge, nudege - wink,wink)

I think 40k is not unrealistic but even your 46K shows how poor this deal is for OP

Cheers

The Baron

That's dodgy as.

The fake de-reg is the kicker for me, that's fraud. if it was my 50k, I'd be asking for my deposit back in full and reporting them to the relevant people.

  • Like 1

Doesn't EL use the buyers agent Nobu?? You see him in the youtube videos, showing of the car right after his purchased them....

In his more recent videos, his been been moving really quickly past the dash so you don't see the ODO!

Disappointed to see MCM endorsing EL!!

You would hope that Nobu or the agent isn't in cahoots with EL, but anything is possible if the $$$ is right. It's entirely possible that all this is happening in Japan post auction/ before shipping, therefor, EL can't get done for ODO tampering in Aus.

You would hope that Nobu or the agent isn't in cahoots with EL, but anything is possible if the $$$ is right. It's entirely possible that all this is happening in Japan post auction/ before shipping, therefor, EL can't get done for ODO tampering in Aus.

Bingo!

Doesn't take a genius to figure that out....yet the authorities will probably turn a blind eye.

  • Like 1

Just finish a big big conversation at Edward Lee, huge update, and again, my english is bad, so please ask me if you don't understand anything I said. I will do this in a dot point format so hope it's much clear. Please read to end.

1. I don't buy this car, he will not sell this car to me.

2. He didn't refused to returned the deposit but he keep dodging the topic so I think if I force him to return the deposit or decided to go ACA or fair trading like many of you said there will be further turble like: #1. he will get a million reasons why I cannot get my deposit back #2. it may take forever to get my deposit via fair trading (I tried fiar trading befor and it took 2 years to get my bond back for the room I rent back when i was in university which was only $1200 AUD.) #3. Please put yourself in this situation and you really think yalling words like f**k f**k f**k and f**k in his car yard gonna help me get my money back? It's really harder to do than just saying, I'm really scared if I make things ugly with him I will never get my money back.

3. he is going to import another car for me and here is the condition:

#1, I will involve in every step of the process

#2, I choose the car, not him anymore I will use the website he uses called 4wheelers if I remembered it right.

#3, he have to provide the de-reg paper of the car.

#4, I get to inspect the car at JLM before I pay off the car.

#5, I made thoes conditions so whatever I say now he will say yes as long as I still do business with him.

4. Just talked to Japanese odometer check, he still think the codition is not good enough and I should take my money back and go to iron shef. So I will go talk to Phil Lee tomorrow. Because I trust JOC more obvioursly.

5. I always know I should go away, and I always know you guys are right. I am just too scared and too worry of not getting my 11k deposit back. Not that I don't trust you guys!

6. Any of you guys think a nice way to say? I don't want threaten and I know if I do he will make sure that I suffer more than he does.

7. I didn't make the thing I'm scared about clear, so I just added this one, I'm scared and worry about that he knows where I live, what I do for living, my phone and other personal informations. I mean If I made him loss his business, G.O.D knows what will he do to me.

Edited by Edifier

Sorry just saw that now.

Surprised no one noticed how it was missing the VIN number on it.

Was just about to point that out! And the supplied de-reg papers look legit. 60k in 2010, 80k in 2012 = about 100k in 2014.

10k per year so who knows how many were on original dash.

All dodgyness aside, grade 4, 100k, at around $40-45k it's not a bad buy.

Was just about to point that out! And the supplied de-reg papers look legit. 60k in 2010, 80k in 2012 = about 100k in 2014.

10k per year so who knows how many were on original dash.

All dodgyness aside, grade 4, 100k, at around $40-45k it's not a bad buy.

Yes, grade 4, 100k $45k is not a bad buy, but I want something better. My budget is below 70k anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...