Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 R32 - Blowby & Oil Consumption

deongster

By deongster,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to check with you guys - do any of your Rb26 suffer a lot of blowby? When on idle and when u rev - do you get a black soot coming out of the exhaust? And when on boost lots of black smoke? Like it is extremely rich?

What is the average oil consumption on the RB26?

Im on Magnatec now - drove for 2 weeks - and i checked 2 days ago it was about half from the F line. Had to top up.

Just want to see if any of you guys experience this - and if any of you know if it is a problem... If it is a problem what is the solution?

This is my first RB26 so im learning as i go along.

Car is running fine - boosts fine as well witha slight misfire at 5500rpm to 6000rpm - should be the coils, will be changing them at the end of the month - just these 2 issues - no leaks other than return hose from the turbines has a slight leak.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441618-rb26-r32-blowby-oil-consumption/
Share on other sites
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

What oil weight do you run? I wouldn't risk my RB26 with Magnatec; I use Penrite SIN/Racing/Premium oils.

Search for the AFM solder fix (in DIY section I think). New coilpacks helps, make sure you chuck new spark plugs in as well (BCPR6ES-11, since you have new coils, no need to use 0.8mm gapped plugs). Fix all intake leaks.

My car doesn't use any oil, running off the actuators (~12psi) with standard turbos/ECU/injetors. 5L goes in, 10,000km later 5L comes out.

Odo shows 161k km but who knows how old the engine/car really is.

deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Are you confusing the car running rich (black smoke) with blow by?

And magnatec?

When on boost it gets a lot of black smoke - but only on boost - looks like running rich..

the blow by is when its on idle - the walls behind the exhaust will have soot on it...

Magnatec yea - i jsut got the car - did a service on it with Castrol magnatec and probably do another service in about 2k km time - so thats a 3000km change... trying to flush as much out as possible..

deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

What oil weight do you run? I wouldn't risk my RB26 with Magnatec; I use Penrite SIN/Racing/Premium oils.

Search for the AFM solder fix (in DIY section I think). New coilpacks helps, make sure you chuck new spark plugs in as well (BCPR6ES-11, since you have new coils, no need to use 0.8mm gapped plugs). Fix all intake leaks.

My car doesn't use any oil, running off the actuators (~12psi) with standard turbos/ECU/injetors. 5L goes in, 10,000km later 5L comes out.

Odo shows 161k km but who knows how old the engine/car really is.

Noted on the oil - time to do a change soon then... weight is 10-40

What is the common ones you guys run?

Not running AFM - currently on Haltech Platinum Pro - yup looking at new coil packs and plugs end month... Thanks for the tips on the plugs - what brand do you guys usually run on plugs?

Engine is supposedly forged :-

CP Pistons

Eagle Rods

Tomei 270 cams

Springs/Retainers

N1 turbos with HKS actuators

Haltech

Rebuilt done probably about 35000 km ago - estimated... previous owner doesn't know as well..

Other than the oil and blowby - she seems to run very smooth and no glitches other than the misfire..

Oh and im also boosting less than 1 bar - average at 0.8 bar... don't boost it much to be honest...

Edited by deongster
deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

And that's using way too much oil.

Start planning a rebuild

You reckon... hmmm... donest sound too promising

Any comments on LiquiMoly for the RB...

Edited by deongster
deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah,you aren't describing blowby.

sounds like moisture in exhaust coming out when you start it up in the morning .

Please explain further.

Hmmmm sorry guys - my apologies - ok when i first start the car in the morning or after driving to work about 30km away - if i were to reverse park the car with exhaust facing the wall - and i rev - there will be a lot of soot on the wall - looks wet and bit oily - my mistake for calling it blow by, blowby is when its from the breathers right? .. Sorry for the confusion...

Any comments on LiquiMoly for the RB as well as what Viscosity you guys use?

The reason for this post is to see if there is a problem and solutions for the problem... thanks for the responses guys

Edited by deongster
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the world of high maintenance car ownership!

Plugs are NGK as above. Gap them down to 0.8mm regardless of whether or not you have replaced the coils.

I use Motul products myself although I see LiquiMoly is the No1 seller in Germany!. Just make sure you use a quality synthetic oil.

It shouldn't be using a lot of oil. If it doesn't come right get a compression test and/or a leak down test.

If it continues to pour out black sooty smoke get it put on a dyno (there are good tuners in Sydney) for a tune/diagnostic.

djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted

Sounds 'tune' related with regards to carbon soot on idle. But almost all cars run richer on startup to help get up to temp.

What fuel consumption do you get ?

What's you coolant like? clear or murky? Any milky residue under oil cap?

You would be seeing grey/blue smoke from exhaust if rings etc were worn, not black.

deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds 'tune' related with regards to carbon soot on idle. But almost all cars run richer on startup to help get up to temp.

What fuel consumption do you get ?

What's you coolant like? clear or murky? Any milky residue under oil cap?

You would be seeing grey/blue smoke from exhaust if rings etc were worn, not black.

Consumption maybe about 400km per tank - crazy - on on Ron98 for now.

Coolant was brownish and a bit milky when bought - like it has never been changed before - doesnt look like it has a gasket issue no oil on top etc - i flushed it down and replaced the whole coolant with new coolant - temperature has ALWAYS been good...

No smoke when idle or driving - only when i boot it and boost comes in at higher rpm - there is always a cloud of black smoke...

Try a thicker oil. When I was using 5-40 I was losing a lot. Changed to 15-50 Nulon at the recommendation of the engine builder and doesn't use any now.

Will try a thicker one after this - and id probably give LiquiMoly a try - it was very good for me in my previous cars in Malaysia - will see how it goes...

Welcome to the world of high maintenance car ownership!

Plugs are NGK as above. Gap them down to 0.8mm regardless of whether or not you have replaced the coils.

I use Motul products myself although I see LiquiMoly is the No1 seller in Germany!. Just make sure you use a quality synthetic oil.

It shouldn't be using a lot of oil. If it doesn't come right get a compression test and/or a leak down test.

If it continues to pour out black sooty smoke get it put on a dyno (there are good tuners in Sydney) for a tune/diagnostic.

hahah thanks mate - high maintenance - i think this one is pretty ok hahah i used to have an Alfa Romeo 155 V6, 155 V6 Turbo, 156 Twin Spark and a 168 3.0 V6 in Malaysia!!! LOL THAT WAS high!!

Noted on the plugs - they are NGK at the moment - dont know the Gap though... but it does use a lot of oil in my opinion - ill try and use a thicker Viscosity and see how it goes..

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Try a 15W-50 oil as mentioned and BCPR6ES spark plugs (already gapped to 0.8mm so you don't have to gap them).

400km per "tank", I'll assume 60L and non-highway driving, sounds about right for a modified turbo car. Re-tune might give you better mileage, but those cams won't.

deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Try a 15W-50 oil as mentioned and BCPR6ES spark plugs (already gapped to 0.8mm so you don't have to gap them).

400km per "tank", I'll assume 60L and non-highway driving, sounds about right for a modified turbo car. Re-tune might give you better mileage, but those cams won't.

Thanks for the tip!! Yup im definitely going to try the oil and plugs and the new coil packs...

Phew - thanks for the sounds about right part!! hahaha as long as it sounds about right, im ok with it...

First RB - learning curve, always a learning curve =)

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

You need to find where the oil is getting out. If its being burnt you should see white/blue smoke out the exhaust. Have you looked for leaks? Using a thick oil is a bandaid (but it is cheap).

deongster Mentor

deongster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You need to find where the oil is getting out. If its being burnt you should see white/blue smoke out the exhaust. Have you looked for leaks? Using a thick oil is a bandaid (but it is cheap).

That is the thing - i don't see any leaks on the block or even head - only on the Turbine oil return hose there is a seep and the front right axle there is a slight leak - other than that - it looks dry - No drips on my tarp i put on the floor in the garage even after leaving the car for a few days...

So i actually don't know where the oil is going too - other than through the exhaust and out... hence the post to see if any one experience the same before...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...