Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not true, there are Holsets which perform very well on performance petrol motors- you have to get the right combos but there are varieties of HX35 which have been used very successfully on RB25s- I very nearly bought one instead of the GT3076R, only reason I didn't was I at the time figured I didn't want an external wastegate/aftermarket manifold setup.

I got HX35 laying around for preferably some one had a 3076 or similar to try it. It was a repair job for a school bus and the customer didn't came back.

They can make the power, how ever there are many options out today which are capable of the same amount of HP with better response and drive ability.

I got HX35 laying around for preferably some one had a 3076 or similar to try it. It was a repair job for a school bus and the customer didn't came back.

They can make the power, how ever there are many options out today which are capable of the same amount of HP with better response and drive ability.

The same can be said for a LOT of popular turbos - everything can't be the best, so everything else has something better than it. The Holsets aren't the best out there, but they are far from the worst, and pretty far up there in terms of value for money.... the trick is just doing the research and identifying which ones are the ones which would work for you.

any opinions on master power turbos?

They seem solid and reliable, I am still waiting for more real world feedback on them before I form an opinion on their power versus response but one of my mates just got his R33 GTS25t tuned with a billet MP595 and made 330kw @ hubs on 19psi with a respectable power delivery, from what he's said.... will have to try and find out more about how it drives etc. It sounds awesome! :D

  • Like 1

i was but i still have the problem of my stock dump...after talking to a few people and umming and aahhhing a lot...i want to use a much easier dump configuration with vband's used for the wastegate..this will allow me to re-make the front pipe and dump to accomodate a couple of things that i also want namely a 3" flexi and a wideband bung....also make it easier to take apart in the future when i 30det it.

I had a hx 35 with internal gate and all it did was over boost. After I changed actuators like 3 times and all different types. I gave e up. I then just tied the gate open and still I was over boosting to about 25 psi. A matter of fact I new from experience I was maxing out the ecu on my rb20det. So i spent 800 dollars on a ROM tune ecu injectors and Z32 AFM. It started to eat the boost up. But after a while I was wondering why it's over boosting even with the gate open and tied open. So off came the turbo. I new it wasn't boost controller or waste gate.

I noticed that the gate flap wasn't opening all the way. I then found online that people were have the same issue. (Internal gate here) it was limited by the cover 5 bolts cover or somthing like that. The flap couldn't open all the way. Next at closer inspection I noticed that it was a internal waste gate but twin scroll t3 turbo. So in short only one scroll would vent and the other would keep on boosting. This has nothing do with it being good or not. But it bugged me for so long that I spent 800 dollars on ecu and injectors along with AFM. Plus down time waiting. I had better results with cheap ass ebay turbos. I just should have done that and change to external waist gate. Besides all the the turbo hit hard when it came in but was way to laggy for me.

Wasn't really blaming the turbo here. Other than the lag it has on a rb25. Keeping in mind that the flap still didn't control boost well. I do believe it came from a diesel truck that only boost form 22/30 psi. Hence it venting from one scroll. I got it free and wasn't complaining.

I know what you mean mate. I just was list my experience with it. But it was free. Totally. Just was a interesting boost issue I had. I personally don't like them. For the money I would pay for one I can get other turbos that just boost faster with less lag. That's me and I do understand that not all people are the same. It would be a boring world if it was like that.

I have been through my share of turbos and aftermarket parts on both cars. So I am hardly having a go at anyone for doing the same as I have done.

Usually the best results came from carefully thinking out what I wanted and paying the right price for the item. Nearly every shortcut I took ended up taking longer to sort out the issues created.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...