Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering which wideband oxygen sensor to get. First thing is what are peoples thoughts on running an O2 gauge? I don't particularly want to but I spose it would be good to monitor AFR's. This car will be doing lots of drifting and I was hoping to just run oil temp, pressure and water temp.

Will be using an Adaptronic select plug in R34-GTT ECU.

Would ideally like to run something from the tech edge catalogue because they are Australian. All I really need is a sensor to feed wideband AFR's to the ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444361-wideband-o2-sensor/
Share on other sites

Having a gauge is a personal preference thing. Personally I look at it after doing any work in the engine bay but if you're hammering it around the track you won't so much as glance at it

edit: I'd have to agree with the MTX-L. I couldn't get the serial output working on my AEM EUGO but with a mates MTX-L it never had an issue. (same PC)

Edited by Blackkers

Email adaptronic for the gauge, there is one that can be wired into the ecu and give you real life reading on both the gauge and loges with the ECU. I've got that on my Kia, works very well and very handy when comes to road touch ups.

Email adaptronic for the gauge, there is one that can be wired into the ecu and give you real life reading on both the gauge and loges with the ECU. I've got that on my Kia, works very well and very handy when comes to road touch ups.

yeah that would be the Innovate MTX-L lol

http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/mtx-l-wideband-airfuel-ratio-gauge/

If you're not really fussed about the gauge, how does the LC-1 compare against MTX-L? Have heard reports about it being "hard to wire up" but I'm not sure if that's a legitimate complaint. Some people shouldn't be let loose near a soldering iron :P

There is an LC-2 newly released but adaptronic not carrying it yet.

I had a brand new AEM UEGO that was reading about .6-.8 more rich than at the tailpipe after comparing 2 other widebands.

The only difference is that the permanent sensor is installed pre-cat obviously. Not sure if that's normal

Both or one of them might be due for a free air calibration?

Agreee with that. My LC1 seemed to read great. Had a 10% difference with the sensor used on a dyno.. trusted the dyno sensor and ended up maxxing out 555cc Nismo Injectors with not enough power to match.

Ditched the Dyno and operator when he was "going for the 300kw" regardless of the rich detonation, and took over 10% fuel out from 3500rpm and above on the road on the way home. Turned out the LC1 was spot on.

I just made sure i re calibrated it each Oil change. 3+ years now.

I got 4 years out of mine on ethanol, but it wasn't the sensor that went, it was the LC1 unit that failed.

It is carbon that buggers the sensors, especially if the heater can't keep up with cleaning it off. I know tuners that replace the sensor every week or two as they cop a hiding from running rich on petrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...