Jump to content
SAU Community

21" Strausse Forged Rims On R35


Recommended Posts

^I agree. Generally, I think that GTR's look best with one inch bigger than standard, from R32 through to R34. E.g. R32-17", R33-18" and R34-19" . But that rule of thumb doesn't seem to hold true for R35's for some reason.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes another rajab infested thread.

my work on this site is done.

and im loving the first pic prank. however, same dish on the rear as on the front please.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You cant get same dish on front and rear as these are not set up as a squared rim from factory. they run staggered sets from factory.

Having said that.... doesnt mean you cant try! Any many people have done so, just need to run alot of neg camber up front. Im going to run 11" square setup on my car....

Volk GS2 are popular... but TE37 Ultra in a squared FACE4 setup looks better imo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
    • Just did this job on my 32 with the boost doc kit. was quite simple to fit, hardest part was getting the rubber bungs back on the firewall. does anyone know how the heater will work now without the flap in the bend? Will I just have a heater on 24/7 now?
×
×
  • Create New...