Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.. ive done some searching but couldn't find anthing...

I have a rb25 series 2

Nistune

exhaust and cooler

new coils and plugs

the car "stumbles" at 3500rpm...and the boosts fine to 10psi in all gears.... its gets worse once its warm... im unable to boost it without it popping and farten.

any ideas guys???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445271-bloody-rb25/
Share on other sites

It had splitfires in her. Then changed to some ebay ones..they are red.

brand new z32 afm has been installed

ive put in 3 new sets of plugs... 7es ones (colder type plug)

Also had the cooler piping fixed up last week as well. . It was fouling the swaybars etc

Also cleaned the iac valve

checked the injectors and had new orings installed

any advice would be great.... this car is doing my head in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445271-bloody-rb25/#findComment-7331100
Share on other sites

So car hammers when cold? And you hammer it when cold? That's dumb.

Why write any advice would be great after receiving heaps of advice?

Should we take that as you are rejecting advice given up untill that point?

And to clarify. I suggested the three things as they are all likely causes causes of your car running like it does. You are welcome to ignore them but I would suggest pressure testing your inlet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445271-bloody-rb25/#findComment-7331129
Share on other sites

Ben, I actually thought the same as you....but I then realised that just maybe, giving a little credit to the OP, that mentioning that it goes hard when cold but has a bigger problem when hot is at least a valid piece of information.

I mean, if it were me being the OP I would have felt the need to tell people that I don't normally punt it when cold, just to make sure they realise I'm not an idiot but only did it for diagnostic purposes, but obviously some people don't feel the need to allay suspicion in such circumstances.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445271-bloody-rb25/#findComment-7331226
Share on other sites

Im not trying to start an argument. .. but picking up on " it hammers when cold" and telling me im dumb.. to me is a key peice of information to help diagnosis

as for writing "any advice with a reason for your advice" .. anyone can rattle of parts of a car afm, gearbox, plugs... but why do you think its that part will help me alot more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445271-bloody-rb25/#findComment-7331306
Share on other sites

Im not trying to start an argument. .. but picking up on " it hammers when cold" and telling me im dumb.. to me is a key peice of information to help diagnosis

as for writing "any advice with a reason for your advice" .. anyone can rattle of parts of a car afm, gearbox, plugs... but why do you think its that part will help me alot more

I didn't say you are dumb.

I said hammering a cold engine is dumb.

I think it's a boost leak or dirty afm because they make the car have the symptoms you are suggesting

I also couldn't be stuffed writing along response explaining my reasons initially.

Just like you didn't bother to write a post that explains your problem and the car history fully.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445271-bloody-rb25/#findComment-7331332
Share on other sites

It had splitfires in her. Then changed to some ebay ones..they are red.

brand new z32 afm has been installed

ive put in 3 new sets of plugs... 7es ones (colder type plug)

Also had the cooler piping fixed up last week as well. . It was fouling the swaybars etc

Also cleaned the iac valve

checked the injectors and had new orings installed

any advice would be great.... this car is doing my head in

Might want to check the compression and timing, then put the splitfires back in and check for leaks with carby cleaner. Injector O-rings lubed?

We are assuming the setup was tuned before not just someone elses nistune from ebay with an Ebay special turbo bolted on ?

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445271-bloody-rb25/#findComment-7332335
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...