Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am also running a NPC clutch but just the heavy duty organic and it's holding 250rwkw fine and the pedal feel is light and good for the street. There service is also awesome.

Edited by DoseVader

spoke with Doug @ NPC, he recommended the 10" organic like everyone else has, i assume its the same carbotic plate and will hold 300rwkw comfortably.

Thanks guys!

Organic and carbotic are different.

spoke with Doug @ NPC, he recommended the 10" organic like everyone else has, i assume its the same carbotic plate and will hold 300rwkw comfortably.

Thanks guys!

Same clutch in the stagea (organic not carbotic) very nice to use.

I am also running a NPC clutch but just the heavy duty organic and it's holding 250rwkw fine and the pedal feel is light and good for the street. There service is also awesome.

Same here, been running NPC 10"-HD organic with a manual conversion for about a year at 275rwkw, holding up well, including 40 laps of Sandown on a track day.

+1 for good service, too.

I installed a 10inch carbotic clutch with a lighter flywheel many months ago and took it out for its first drive last weekend! Wow pretty much drives like a stock clutch alot better than the shitty xtreame shuttery POS. Could not be happier with the product so far.

Can't wait to get a full tune to she how it all goes together!

  • 4 weeks later...

called npc up today and they quoted 2500 for their twin plate +$500 for the pull-push converter. based on what they had said over the phone they didn't think the single could handle 350kwatw

thinking of the Nismo twinplate but need one this week...

  • Like 1

Nah it just holds the intermediate plate and cover (pressure plate) and stops them from spinning relative to the engine. Probably better to google image it because i'm not explaining it well.

If NPC say what they sold you is good for 400-450, then i'd be confident it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...