Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Having problems with my LM with fuel system and having a read through this post it seems that I need a fuel speed regulator. Its running a Haltech Pro on e85 flex fuel with a nismo intank and 044 under the floor with just under

360kw atw, I have just bought the car so finding out all the gremlins.

There is no speed controller for the 044 and its running flat out and definitely overheating the fuel and the car is stalling and the 044 makes a racket when putting around town (especially since its been getting up over 36 degrees here).

Does haltech made a plug in controller or how did the Aeromotive unit turn out?

I'll be asking my tuner this week if there's any outputs that can be used from the haltech to trigger the controller otherwise I'll have to use RPM as a trigger I'll have no choice.

PM me at the end of the week and I'll let you know what he reckons

Edited by mr skidz

decided as its 50km to closest e85 outlet and only get 200km to tank on it i am going to disable my flex fuel and go for a straight 98 tune, also will remove the 044 booster fuel pump which will solve all my problems, still have around 300kw so still not too bad.

Ill reconnect it once e85 get closer to my house and redo my fuel setup to suit.

  • 4 weeks later...

Looking at replacing my current 2 x 044's with a proflow surge tank that incorporates internal pumps. It comes as a kit with these which I presume are just a rebranded walbro style pump as the aem, aeroflow, etc pumps all look identical. Would ideally like to run 2 x walbro 460's but I'm not sure they will fit the hanger in the tank. Any feedback on the proflow pumps would be great

509010_1.jpg

Edited by PSI086

Dual 460's is an absolute shitload of fuel. Any reason for wanting twin pumps? If it were me i would run a single and then just buy a pressure sensor with left over money and let my ECU keep an eye on fuel pressure. It will let you know if a pump is on it's way out, where a dual set up one many be failing but the second pump will mask it which is dangerous.

  • Like 1

I could always run a single 460 as that will fit the carrier. Currently I'm running 1 x 044 constantly and the other is staged to come on at 10psi. Car is on E85 making close to 400rwkw through an auto. What sort of power is a 460 rated to?

2 x 044 in-tank? How difficult to get them both down that narrow slot?

I'd be a bit surprised if a single Walbro 460 would hit the mark with 400rwkW and be comfortable with doing it. But then you'd be looking at wiring, lines, reg, and filter setup, IMO.

A single 460 should flow 430-450kw at stock base pressure, in a manual, on e85. That would be a much better option than those $50 Chinese e85 pumps everyone is flogging. ^^ Worst case you could lower the base pressure a little?

I am about to try the 325L short Areoflow version in a customers car so I will let you know if we have issues, I just wish the Walbro 460L would fit in that one. I would prefer to run a Walbro 255 than the Aeroflow, it will likely run out of flow on e85, but at least I know they are long term ethanol safe.

Stay away from twin pumps unless you have some way of knowing one has failed, especially with generic pumps like those Proflow/Aeroflow/Raceworks etc. The warranty won't replace your engine, only the pump...

  • Like 1

guys its pumps internal to the surge tank not the fuel tank.
Also that is one big f**king surge tank pictured.

single 460 starts to run out of puff around 400-450kw on E85, so particularly if you're running high boost i can understand wanting a pair.

Still personally leaning towards a fuelab for my new setup

Hey everyone, after doing my bench testing with E85, these were the results. I was going to post them but must have forgot:

Walbro 460lph All at 65psi on E85 (This is the "267" model pump)

13.5v (this is the normal operating voltage) = 340lph (17 amps)
14v = 360lph (18 amps)
16v = 420lph (20 amps)
18v = 480lph (22.5 amps)

You'll find these values are nearly the same (maybe 20-30lph lower) with gasoline, and the pump draws about 2 amps more at all voltages.

I would have liked to do more tests but I had to hurry up and install the voltage booster into the car.

Works well, I have the booster set at 16.2 volts to come on with the conditions 5800rpm & 16psi of boost. Needs to meet both in order to switch.

otherwise, low speed for idle and cruise, and medium (booster on, but no boost which is 14.0v on the dot, 3500rpm & 5psi)
Edited by The Mafia
  • Like 1

Running 4bar fuel pressure so a single 460 will most likely be on it's limit by the sounds of it. I was considering setting up a fuel pressure sensor anyway so I could always set that up alongside the current afr engine protection. The pumps also have check valves installed down the line so if one fails there will still be pressure.

I'm still not sold on the proflow pumps as they are probably just like a ebay knockoff 044. Might be worth modifying the hanger if necessary to fit a pair of 460's

Has anyone got any feedback on the Holley dominator pumps? This is also another option if I wanted to retain my current surge tank

There isn't much at the moment but I can tell you what i have done so far:

1. Installed Walbro 460lph

2. Installed voltage booster. (12v, 14v, 16.2v)
3. Billet Fuel Filter

4. Radium Jet pump / Venturi in the factory position

5. Upgraded to a turbosmart 1200 FPR.

6. Factory fuel rail having ends cut off and -6 JIC male ends welded on.
7. Plate / Coat the factory Fuel rail again for protection.

8. Mount Turbosmart 1200 FPR in the factory FPR position.
9. Eventually I will drop off the hard lines and put Ethanol proof ones on.

Fairly basic upgrades, and a fuel system that will be able to handle 500awkw with a single fuel pump.

I'm not worried about the dangers of leaning as I have my ECU set up to "Fuel pressure referenced" mode. Each injector pulse calculation is done based on a reading from the fuel pressure sensor I have fitted. From here, I have set limits so that the car cannot lean out.

The only way I can do damage leaning it is if one single injector decides it wants to block.

Edited by The Mafia

I'm not worried about the dangers of leaning as I have my ECU set up to "Fuel pressure referenced" mode. Each injector pulse calculation is done based on a reading from the fuel pressure sensor I have fitted. From here, I have set limits so that the car cannot lean out.

The only way I can do damage leaning it is if one single injector decides it wants to block.

Having the fuel map reliant on one sensor would stress me out a little. Perhaps if there were two pressure sensors in comparison I would be happier, but after working on electronics all my life I have little faith in anything electrical long term.

Will you be using wideband correction or protection also?

Having the fuel map reliant on one sensor would stress me out a little. Perhaps if there were two pressure sensors in comparison I would be happier, but after working on electronics all my life I have little faith in anything electrical long term.

Will you be using wideband correction or protection also?

But you rely on one map or maf, or one wideband don't you? One cas etc...

  • Like 1

I've been running it for a year now, no issues.

At idle, I have wound the pressure down to 220kpa, AFR stayed the same. Wound the pressure up to 400kpa at idle, AFR stayed the same ;)

I will look at making a table though.

I liek to just drive and let the ECU do the watching / protecting. No guages except temp gets looked at.

  • Like 1

At idle I wouldn't expect too much change, but I had the reg vac line pop off at the track a few times in the Evo, I did the whole track day at 32psi on United ethanol before realising it was running 16:1 at full noise, all because I forgot to cable tie it.

Talking with my tuner about why the engine didn't melt, he tells me the exhaust temps actually drop off after stoich on e85, unlike petrol that gets hotter. Perhaps there is less to worry about these days on ethanol anyway? I know it has saved my Stagea engine more times than I can count, like when the wastegate open hose split and it ran over 60psi. :P

I'm about to fit a Link Fury, should be able to run all these sensors and protection soon, including 4.9 wideband and flex, just struggling to find a tuner that wants to put the time into setting it up. One of those things you need to do yourself I guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...