Jump to content
SAU Community

My Breather Setup


edizio
 Share

Recommended Posts

FWIW The pcv is only evacuating blow by that is on idle/cruise i.e vacuum....when putting more pressure in the crankcase by way of rpm and boost the cam breathers are doing the most ventilation.....just plug up the pcv valve and use the cam cover breathers to a catch can if you have no legal issues with emissions control.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohhhhhhh!! I understand!

So all this time I was concerned that the suction would cause the PCV to shut but actually the ventilation whilst on boost was never through the PCV valve at all!!!!

So if I'm blowing oil out of the dip stick, there's a problem with the Venturi not creating enough suction on the exhaust cam cover breather given that there is exhaust back pressure. Right so now to fix!

This is a really good community, I'm grateful for your help and understanding in me being pretty oblivious to this part of the engine management.

Edited by edizio
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes but what you'll find is only having 1 venturi or flute to try and create enough vacuum to remove the crank case pressure is not enough and why the pressure is building in the crankcase and popping out the dipstick. There are 2 breathers off the top of the cam covers....you need at least this piping volume to evacuate the crankcase pressure, on factory setup they join them and plum them into the intake in front of the turbo which creates the vacuum necessary and also meets the emission controls for being legal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so why vent to atmosphere when I could plumb up the dip stick with a one way valve so that it could breath in but not out and then let the vapour exit all through the cam cover breathers?

Or is this going to become a problem, once again, due to back pressure?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I typically just pull the catch tank tube off and stick the dip stick in... Which is a pain because I check the oil before and after I go for a drive!

The car only comes out on nice days.. I use my motorbike or other car otherwise. She's too nice! And too quick lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so why vent to atmosphere when I could plumb up the dip stick with a one way valve so that it could breath in but not out and then let the vapour exit all through the cam cover breathers?

Or is this going to become a problem, once again, due to back pressure?

Because you really don't know what your exhaust pressure is. If you are venting to atmosphere you do know what the pressure is. Also by an additional venting point you are equalizing the engine pressure and not relying on one point of relief.

At the end of the day whatever you have now isn't working very well. So maybe just try what has suggested and see how it goes. Sometimes you just have to do what's been proven to work and not get into the paralysis by analysis trap which sometimes we are all guilty of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, so an update!

I spoke to the car builder and he said that I could go atmos but the Venturi always worked for him and he never saw oil coming out as the suction was always sufficient so perhaps I should investigate further due to this being odd behaviour

So upon investigation, I found that I had a leak in the half moon seal on the exhaust side where oil seems to be leaking out so I've ordered a new half moon, cam cover gasket and bolt seals. I'm pretty certain that a leak in the cam cover would result in some funny behaviour so I am going to investigate a bit further.

His advice is that if I want to go to atmosphere, like you guys recommend, I'll need 2x 12AN hoses to be sufficient enough to vent.

I'll wait until the parts come and fix the car myself and then see what the behaviour is like.

PS, red metallic rb26 rocker cover with old and ugly breather hoses. What colour samco hoses would look nice! I'm totally crap when it comes to things like this, which is evident because I'm thinking purple!! Lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally like stainless braid, but go with whatever makes you happy as you'll be the only one that sees it.

This is what my engine looks like...

IMG_0906_zpsb8f4aa9e.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks great, I've actually got stainless braid for my fuel lines and for the exhaust Venturi but standard rubber on the breathers at the moment. Quite tempting! I'll keep posted on what I decide and take some pictures.

It'll be within the next week or two that I fix the leak so I'll probably order something in once I decide what I am going to do :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally like stainless braid, but go with whatever makes you happy as you'll be the only one that sees it.

This is what my engine looks like...

IMG_0906_zpsb8f4aa9e.jpg

Very nice. I like braided lines but I use rubber hose cause I'm poor. BTW what kind of plenum is that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, so an update!

I spoke to the car builder and he said that I could go atmos but the Venturi always worked for him and he never saw oil coming out as the suction was always sufficient so perhaps I should investigate further due to this being odd behaviour

So upon investigation, I found that I had a leak in the half moon seal on the exhaust side where oil seems to be leaking out so I've ordered a new half moon, cam cover gasket and bolt seals. I'm pretty certain that a leak in the cam cover would result in some funny behaviour so I am going to investigate a bit further.

His advice is that if I want to go to atmosphere, like you guys recommend, I'll need 2x 12AN hoses to be sufficient enough to vent.

I'll wait until the parts come and fix the car myself and then see what the behaviour is like.

PS, red metallic rb26 rocker cover with old and ugly breather hoses. What colour samco hoses would look nice! I'm totally crap when it comes to things like this, which is evident because I'm thinking purple!! Lol

Im thinking the reason that you perhaps have the leak out of the half moon seal is the setup you have pressurized the cam covers with your current setup

Just vent atmo (including blocking the PCV valve) in a subtle way and be done with it. E.g. just like Ryno's setup above. The hose coming out of the can can go down to breathe out below the car (but made to look like it is going somewhere legit in case the 5-0 has a brief look under the bonnet...)

Edited by jjman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pressurising the cam covers doesn't sound good. That would imply that I'm getting positive pressure from the exhaust wouldn't it? Which is weird because I tested the one way valve to make sure no exhaust enters the system..

Chances are I'm going to go with the atmo setup with the 2 12AN lines like you guys recommend, it doesn't look hard to set up either. It's a shame though, as you guys write, in theory the Venturi system seems like it should work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, the engine itself pressurises the cam covers (which are in the same volume as the sump!) by blow-by past the rings. That's why you have to have a breather system at all. The PCV system cannot suck the crankcase gases into the intake manifold under thos circumstances because there is boost in there.

And to make matters worse, the one way valve in your exhaust venturi is set up to prevent any flow from ever going out to the exhaust, so even if it could suck the crankcase gases out (assuming the venturi works) then it won't.

That's why none of this silly circus works. Piss it all off, start again.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, will probably replace the system :-)

Although! The one way valve should only be letting gases go back down into the exhaust and not up into it. Didn't quite understand what you said there

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice. I like braided lines but I use rubber hose cause I'm poor. BTW what kind of plenum is that?

If you look closely you will see the engine is a RB25DET, the plenum top was made by MX Performance in Sydney... I'm not sure if he's still in business (as I can't find his website anymore) however I'm really happy with it - similar quality to Plazmaman and a little better price wise. I also run a MX Performance exhaust manifold, it has 1" runners and spools the turbo much earlier than the stock manifold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, will probably replace the system :-)

Although! The one way valve should only be letting gases go back down into the exhaust and not up into it. Didn't quite understand what you said there

I quote from your original post.....

"any kind of hard suction on the PCV valve from the exhaust side causes it to shut"

I read that to mean that the one way valve will not permit flow in the direction engine -> exhaust and will only permist flow in the direction exhaust->engine, which is of course the wrong way around, which has already been said by somebody earlier on in this thread.

So when you are on boost you have nowhere for crankcase gases to go at all. The PCV connection at the intake manifold will only suck on the crankcase when the engine has vacuum, and the venturi will NEVER suck on the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...