Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A few people keep asking how the car is coming along so i thought i might do a build thread on it. I bought the 32 late 2012 as a half finished project, it originaly was a 1989 gts4 but had a forged rb26 thrown in it and made rwd only. When i first got the car it needed a few things done as it was sitting around for a couple of years and the whole inside of the fuel tank had rusted and needed a good clean/flush out, new fuel pumps. I had it tuned at Next up performance in brissy and it made 460rwhp on 18pound. That sort of power was pretty fun and wasnt too laggy with a gt3582.

post-7636-0-35116700-1408502547_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-45615000-1408502622_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-38940000-1408503631_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-09645100-1408502699_thumb.jpg

This arrangment lasted for nearly a year then i spun a bearing when i was taking my missus for her first drive so i had to scare her, the oil pump didnt fail but it either didnt supply enough oil or the custom sump which was made for it wasnt designed to well. From there ive had the motor taken out and decided to go a 3ltr. I spoke to rips and Lewis engines in regards to a 3ltr and Rob from rips said it would be a 2-3 month wait for a motor and after speaking to Darren i decided to go with his torque monster bottom end and his ultimate 26 head. Its still yet to be finished but with 280 deg cams, 12mm lift and the rest in there she should make some decent power.

post-7636-0-50755700-1408503552_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-61525900-1408504347_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-37412400-1408504391_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-28545900-1408504423_thumb.jpg

My turbo choice was made from watching 34GeeTeeTee's results and listening to what Lithium had to say about the forced performance range of turbo's and wanting to try somthing different that hasnt been done, well not that i have seen on a 26/30. I was looking at the HTA3794 but they had the super 94 on sale which is "like a 3794 hit the gym" as fp say on there website. I also bought a 60mm turbosmart powergate as i previously had a 48mm progate and couldnt fault it. Last for the hotside i bought another 6Boost manifold to suit the 26/30 with t4 divided flange and 60mm gate And will be going full 4" exhaust when its put back together.

post-7636-0-46547500-1408506499_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-14841700-1408506602_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-86571900-1408506658_thumb.jpg

From there ive bought some other bits a pieces, I bought a N1 bar with the lip from nissan for just over $700 delivered and I was chasing a set of 33 gtr wheels and i was quoted from Nissan $1700 plus gst each (lol) so I got a second hand set of wheels and had them painted and machined up at magit wheels on the gold coast, they turned out unreal and wrapped them in achilles 123's. Then i purchased some r34 gtt calipers and had them painted red and fitted with ebc pads, dba slotted rotors and HEL braided brake lines. See how these work otherwise some AP's or brembo's will be on the list.

post-7636-0-20808100-1408505184_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-28538800-1408505377_thumb.jpg

I just recieved this plenum from rips and the quality of their work is unreal, so nice just to look at. Few other things i have is HEL braided abs delete kit and clutch line, Koyo 53mm type r radiator to keep it cool. Ive ordered a 5ltr surge tank from Aftermarket Industries running two walbro 460 pumps and a walbro 255 pickup but they said thats still a couple of weeks away. There will always be more but thats all i can think of for now.

post-7636-0-28480000-1408505916_thumb.jpg

post-7636-0-22876000-1408505985_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447048-brads-mad032-rb2630-build/
Share on other sites

Sounds balls Brad. Should be great fun. Interested to see how the big precision goes on a 30 bottom end. What power range do they quote it as having?

Are you going to convert it back to AWD or leave it as is?

All the best, look forward to seeing how it comes together.

Sounds balls Brad. Should be great fun. Interested to see how the big precision goes on a 30 bottom end. What power range do they quote it as having?

Are you going to convert it back to AWD or leave it as is?

All the best, look forward to seeing how it comes together.

Thanks mate, its a forced performance turbo and they have run into the 8's and over 900rwhp, im going to leave it rwd as I think frying 3rd and 4th gear is more fun

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTFPSUPER94

Haha good idea, have been trying not to annoy the hell out of you but this is very close to my "ideal" engine spec for a nuts road/track/drag GTR build - those cams are pretty nuts though! :D

Can't wait to see how this comes out, its going to be a monster.

Interesting, looks epic- looks like its expecting to be used with a more traditional "big power" style setup, like who cares about down low torque.... lets put a huge turbo on and rev the shite out of it :D The hope I had for the Super 94 is you won't need to, but that is definitely way more than sufficient to find the limits of the turbo haha.

This is going to be very interesting, indeed.

What size A/R turbine housing? You want low back pressure with those awesome cams, 12mm lift is getting up there, valve springs will have a hard time. Wicked!

When I ordered the turbo it said ar 1.15 but cast on the housing it says 1.14, either way I think it will flow enough at that size especially with 4" exhaust and 60mm screamer

interesting.

what about engine management strategy and hardware?

thanks for posting and keep us updated!

No worries, im running a power fc with 2 x z32's, splitfire coils, 800cc injectors but will be upgrading to bosch 2200. Im thinking of just running the motor in on this setup the changing to haltech for e85 and lots of boost

Not sure how the Splitfires will get on with E85 on a setup like that - not that I have tested it, but mates who have run anything like that tend to have upgraded to something a bit more lightning spec.

She's definitely quite a different engine combination. Those massive cams may end up making the turbo look a bit laggier than it could be - but I suspect it could still prove to be a bit of a monster, even though the Super94 is more meant to be a thing which uses boost rather than outright flow at lower boost levels to make its power.

Very much looking forward to seeing how this comes out!

There was some miss communication between me and Darren, he's put his 272 cams in not the 280, I thought it was that whole setup he used for the head but its not so I guess the 272 will work alot better on the 3ltr, motor isnt finished yet but is still coming along

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...