Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice to meet you to Mick!!!

yeah I got caught in the act of buying all this.......... cos racecar!!!

and thought it might be an idea to buy a surge tank whilst I was getting other bits and pieces.

lets just say I'll be eating cardboard for the next few weeks!!!

hopefully have almost sorted out the boost issues will finish putting in the new solenoids tomorrow and test her out!!! :)

post-83704-0-49827800-1409385002_thumb.jpg

ended up replacing the whole blackbox of 7 solenoids and 2 green solenoids as one was brittle and broke and I now have pressure in the vacuum system!!! but I'm still not getting secondary boost so first point of call is to check I'm getting vacuum in the vacuum system (separate from the pressure side of the vacuum system)

The system is so complex its a challenge to get my head around it.
The turbo control solenoid uses both vacuum and pressure to operate properly, if not then it wont transition effectively. so I need to see if the "charge control actuator" and the "turbo control actuator" are moving then it means I have vacuum and the solenoid is faulty. The charge control solenoid was in the blackbox so that should be fine! so if that's working correctly I'll see the "double throttle control" actuator moving also.

so much to check and make sure its operating correctly but I'm happy I'm getting on top of it!!!

here are a couple of pic's to show the head f*ck LOL

post-83704-0-21353800-1409480188_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-35521500-1409480226_thumb.png

  • Like 1

That's the thing Brett apparently a twin turbo FD with 280kw will blow any single turbo FD away even if it has 400+kw and some guys are pushing 345kw (537nm @ 5200rpm) out of the twins.

So if I get all the vacuum system and solenoids replaced which I'm over halfway already with fault finding then it'll be good for another 12-15years (and with a vented bonnet maybe longer as there isn't as much heat in the engine bay.)

You hear so many different stories and people are trying to push there own parts ETC but apparently all the FD race stuff ie: Spirit R or Bathurst R are the best items with the least problems but then some guys swear by the single turbo setups.

Its hard to know what's right or wrong so it comes down to personal preference I guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...