Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, every now and then you DO find a killer deal on Ebay and it's not too good to be true.

BW 8374 EFR .92 IWG showed up. $1685 USD shipped to my door!

Also ordered the RAW brokerage manifold for it. I'm excited for sure.

They say the head should be done this week. If this all goes as planned then we will have some AWESOME pictures this weekend...gold valve covers and all.

Check out some pictures next to a GT2860r-7 turbo.

Patrick

post-136202-0-77924300-1430145293_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-52312300-1430145308_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-44178000-1430145324_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-14687000-1430145359_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-55879500-1430145437_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

Also I wanted to point out that the research to pick this turbocharger is located in a thread here. It may be a bit long winded, but the data is there.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455509-bc-stroker-275l-turbo-choices/?p=7511249

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Still chugging alot while waiting for the cylinder head to come back from the shop.

So I did the oil pan sump and -10 AN fittings. I used the Summitracing weld-on fittings and it worked great.

Still just waiting on head and the RAW BROKERAGE manifold for the internal gate to arrive.

I'm going back with a NISMO LSD diff in the front.

post-136202-0-98363800-1433430431_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-72275800-1433430448_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-62105400-1433430458_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Things are finally going together.

They will be done with my cylinder head and it will be shipped out in 3 days! This is good news.

I also received the manifold from RAW BROKERAGE. It's their internally wastegated, divided manifold for the BW EFR 8374 turbo that I have. I'm liking the simplicity of IWG design and setup and this manifold is truly a work of art. The collector is absolutely sexy inside and out.

Spent some time setting up the NISMO LSD in the front diff. I went with the 1.5 way kit. It came with new bearings, seals, etc. I did have to change the side cover shim and luckily everything else fell right in spec after I got that shim correct. The gear blueing, preloads, etc worked great.

Expect some REALLY cool pictures as soon as I get that head, because it should start looking like a complete engine very shortly after.

post-136202-0-40681800-1435602757_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-62852400-1435602767_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-69147900-1435602777_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-54305700-1435602803_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-09129800-1435602841_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-46249600-1435602852_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-67348400-1435602869_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-46762100-1435602884_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-90489500-1435602893_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-71881800-1435602903_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-25642300-1435602922_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29839300-1435602931_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-32034700-1435602941_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-86516700-1435602951_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-75549200-1435602959_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-64334400-1435602968_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-56772100-1435602986_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-11295700-1454425163_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing
  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

FINALLY received the cylinder head. Machine work looks good, and they definitely did finish cleaning up my port work.

The head is on and the engine is getting better!

I couldn't mount the turbo and manifold because the shop forgot to send my studs back after the machine work. They sent out a brand new set!

Also showed how I did the mine's triple baffle covers. (instructions in Japanese, but English converted instructions are available on this forum). It should be noted that the cam cap covers need to be moved to the rear of the head. Observe pictures.

And the color for the valve covers looks GREAT. More like GOLDZYLA.

Also I'm going to use Murrays timing pickup conversion, but I didn't have bolts. From what I measured last night, I will need 7mmx1.00 thread x 43mm long bolts (or somewhere thereabout). I'll have pictures of that setup bolted in place by the end of the week.

post-136202-0-84992100-1437491766_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-78168700-1437491775_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-68085300-1437491806_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-05140400-1437491825_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-28340100-1437491843_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-22707800-1437491867_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-51519200-1437491877_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-02773800-1437491894_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-77021400-1437491914_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-25313100-1437491934_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-11304500-1437509479_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Everyone loves pictures of progress!

Decided on Hypertune V2 6 injector intake manifold with 90mm TB....ordered. 3 or so weeks out.

Turbo is fit up (did not use gasket for now just in case there were issues). Looks great! everything is very accessible so far.

Also fitted Murrayis cam timing components on the cam and it worked great. I had to cut my nitto timing cover to fit, but that's fine...I'll design / fabricate an additional cover to this one. FYI - they ARE m7 bolts!

The Murrayis crank trigger didn't work with Tomei oil pump. The external adjustability simply is too thick of a casting for clearance for the sensor. I'll make something work here soon.

Enjoy!

post-136202-0-86749000-1437810019_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-69587200-1437810027_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-02586600-1437810036_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29916700-1437810045_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-63934000-1437810054_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-52880400-1437810064_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-96782400-1437810072_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-70272000-1437810085_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-89047100-1437810093_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-21122200-1437810101_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-91219100-1437810136_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

More progress. Still working all by myself and I don't know what I was thinking stabbing that motor and trans in there without an extra set of hands. That engine and trans is LONG! My brother had the lifts all tied up at the shop, but I wanted to get the engine and trans in so I could plan where and how to route my turbo and exhaust piping.

I should have removed the hood

I should have purchased a load-leveling device

I should have gone in from the bottom (but the lifts were taken up)

But despite all of that...I did it!

Anyway it's in there!

The NIsmo Super coppermix twin Clutch is a work of art. The vented center plate really sets it apart from other multi's that I have used in the past on other cars.

I did decide to use ARP flywheel bolts instead of stock Nissan (I had them from the first clutch swap I planned).

Turbo does NOT clear the underhood supports...bummer! I was so hoping it would. Also the power steering return line is in a bind and will need to be rerouted, but the AC lines look perfect!

I'll be waiting on the hypertune V2 manifold for a couple of weeks, but for now it will be Oil catch can piping, coolant piping, and turbo / interecooler piping.

There is LOTS of unsaid work when going single turbo. BUT it cleans up the engine bay to no end compared to the twins! Especially where the downpipe and turbo discharge areas are.

post-136202-0-25093100-1438614044_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-86497300-1438614061_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-73068900-1438614113_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-87745500-1438614146_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-33768800-1438614162_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-31243900-1438614189_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-97220000-1438614209_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-94972700-1438614241_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-78722300-1438614261_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-02505900-1438614285_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-20309300-1438614297_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-12318800-1438614790_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-33683000-1438614821_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-51182700-1438614836_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-53211500-1438614871_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-48680600-1438614899_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-15030100-1438614910_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-31350300-1438614922_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-65472300-1438614940_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-06270900-1438614952_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-44535700-1438614962_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-07737800-1438614970_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-43169200-1438614988_thumb.jpg

rear oil drain is not required(doesn't work anyway, same deal with the mines triple flow baffles) if you got the block to head restrictor size matched to your oil pump you will be sweet. I ran a .9mm restrictor with a Reinmax pump(JUN pump flow). The solid lifters don't require a great deal of oil.

The EFR turbo's have a turbine speed limit(560m/s for the 8374). It is a very good idea to run their speed sensor(with a road rage gauge) to ensure you stay below this limit other wise they will eventually spit the Gamma Ti turbine out the exhaust. Many teams running the EFR will dyno tune and then put new turbo's on prior to each race as they run at or above the turbine speed limit. Anti Lag also isn't a good idea. Apart from that they are the best turbo in the world.

Matt

oh, also. Run redline lightweight gear oil in your box. I blew 13 boxes then changed oil..blew none. Don't flat change with the std box and you should be good. R32 gearbox runs different energiser clip than the series 3 33 GTR. If you do replace the box get the Series 3 33 R box.

The EFR vband outlet is a weird size that only BW sell

have you sorted suspension? If not take a look at MCA reds www.mcasuspension.com

Edited by BoostdR

Thanks for the feedback. I'm aware the rear head "drain" really isn't required...but I had purchased it (as well as the Mines baffles) last year prior to knowing that...and I had welded a fitting into the front of my oil pan already for a return (there are 2 there, one for this, the other for the catch can setup) so what the heck I'll block it off if I really don't see a need for it.

I'm running the stock Tomei restrictor and their oil pump on high-flow mode. I also will be running 2 cyclonic separators and then a catch can. I have lots of plumbing to do while I wait on the Hypertune.

And yes the turbine speed gauge is high on my list, but not until we get the initial tuning and break-in done. I will be running low boost until I get that based on the fact that I'll be on the Haltech internal sensor (limited to 22 psi) and the Mid-range EFR boost cannister (20.6 psi). I think the car should still be a rocket on pumpgas with those components.

Thanks again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...