Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, every now and then you DO find a killer deal on Ebay and it's not too good to be true.

BW 8374 EFR .92 IWG showed up. $1685 USD shipped to my door!

Also ordered the RAW brokerage manifold for it. I'm excited for sure.

They say the head should be done this week. If this all goes as planned then we will have some AWESOME pictures this weekend...gold valve covers and all.

Check out some pictures next to a GT2860r-7 turbo.

Patrick

post-136202-0-77924300-1430145293_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-52312300-1430145308_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-44178000-1430145324_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-14687000-1430145359_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-55879500-1430145437_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing

Also I wanted to point out that the research to pick this turbocharger is located in a thread here. It may be a bit long winded, but the data is there.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455509-bc-stroker-275l-turbo-choices/?p=7511249

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Still chugging alot while waiting for the cylinder head to come back from the shop.

So I did the oil pan sump and -10 AN fittings. I used the Summitracing weld-on fittings and it worked great.

Still just waiting on head and the RAW BROKERAGE manifold for the internal gate to arrive.

I'm going back with a NISMO LSD diff in the front.

post-136202-0-98363800-1433430431_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-72275800-1433430448_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-62105400-1433430458_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Things are finally going together.

They will be done with my cylinder head and it will be shipped out in 3 days! This is good news.

I also received the manifold from RAW BROKERAGE. It's their internally wastegated, divided manifold for the BW EFR 8374 turbo that I have. I'm liking the simplicity of IWG design and setup and this manifold is truly a work of art. The collector is absolutely sexy inside and out.

Spent some time setting up the NISMO LSD in the front diff. I went with the 1.5 way kit. It came with new bearings, seals, etc. I did have to change the side cover shim and luckily everything else fell right in spec after I got that shim correct. The gear blueing, preloads, etc worked great.

Expect some REALLY cool pictures as soon as I get that head, because it should start looking like a complete engine very shortly after.

post-136202-0-40681800-1435602757_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-62852400-1435602767_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-69147900-1435602777_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-54305700-1435602803_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-09129800-1435602841_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-46249600-1435602852_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-67348400-1435602869_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-46762100-1435602884_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-90489500-1435602893_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-71881800-1435602903_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-25642300-1435602922_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29839300-1435602931_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-32034700-1435602941_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-86516700-1435602951_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-75549200-1435602959_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-64334400-1435602968_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-56772100-1435602986_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-11295700-1454425163_thumb.jpg

Edited by HarrisRacing
  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

FINALLY received the cylinder head. Machine work looks good, and they definitely did finish cleaning up my port work.

The head is on and the engine is getting better!

I couldn't mount the turbo and manifold because the shop forgot to send my studs back after the machine work. They sent out a brand new set!

Also showed how I did the mine's triple baffle covers. (instructions in Japanese, but English converted instructions are available on this forum). It should be noted that the cam cap covers need to be moved to the rear of the head. Observe pictures.

And the color for the valve covers looks GREAT. More like GOLDZYLA.

Also I'm going to use Murrays timing pickup conversion, but I didn't have bolts. From what I measured last night, I will need 7mmx1.00 thread x 43mm long bolts (or somewhere thereabout). I'll have pictures of that setup bolted in place by the end of the week.

post-136202-0-84992100-1437491766_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-78168700-1437491775_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-68085300-1437491806_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-05140400-1437491825_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-28340100-1437491843_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-22707800-1437491867_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-51519200-1437491877_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-02773800-1437491894_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-77021400-1437491914_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-25313100-1437491934_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-11304500-1437509479_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Everyone loves pictures of progress!

Decided on Hypertune V2 6 injector intake manifold with 90mm TB....ordered. 3 or so weeks out.

Turbo is fit up (did not use gasket for now just in case there were issues). Looks great! everything is very accessible so far.

Also fitted Murrayis cam timing components on the cam and it worked great. I had to cut my nitto timing cover to fit, but that's fine...I'll design / fabricate an additional cover to this one. FYI - they ARE m7 bolts!

The Murrayis crank trigger didn't work with Tomei oil pump. The external adjustability simply is too thick of a casting for clearance for the sensor. I'll make something work here soon.

Enjoy!

post-136202-0-86749000-1437810019_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-69587200-1437810027_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-02586600-1437810036_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29916700-1437810045_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-63934000-1437810054_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-52880400-1437810064_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-96782400-1437810072_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-70272000-1437810085_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-89047100-1437810093_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-21122200-1437810101_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-91219100-1437810136_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

More progress. Still working all by myself and I don't know what I was thinking stabbing that motor and trans in there without an extra set of hands. That engine and trans is LONG! My brother had the lifts all tied up at the shop, but I wanted to get the engine and trans in so I could plan where and how to route my turbo and exhaust piping.

I should have removed the hood

I should have purchased a load-leveling device

I should have gone in from the bottom (but the lifts were taken up)

But despite all of that...I did it!

Anyway it's in there!

The NIsmo Super coppermix twin Clutch is a work of art. The vented center plate really sets it apart from other multi's that I have used in the past on other cars.

I did decide to use ARP flywheel bolts instead of stock Nissan (I had them from the first clutch swap I planned).

Turbo does NOT clear the underhood supports...bummer! I was so hoping it would. Also the power steering return line is in a bind and will need to be rerouted, but the AC lines look perfect!

I'll be waiting on the hypertune V2 manifold for a couple of weeks, but for now it will be Oil catch can piping, coolant piping, and turbo / interecooler piping.

There is LOTS of unsaid work when going single turbo. BUT it cleans up the engine bay to no end compared to the twins! Especially where the downpipe and turbo discharge areas are.

post-136202-0-25093100-1438614044_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-86497300-1438614061_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-73068900-1438614113_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-87745500-1438614146_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-33768800-1438614162_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-31243900-1438614189_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-97220000-1438614209_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-94972700-1438614241_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-78722300-1438614261_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-02505900-1438614285_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-20309300-1438614297_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-12318800-1438614790_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-33683000-1438614821_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-51182700-1438614836_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-53211500-1438614871_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-48680600-1438614899_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-15030100-1438614910_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-31350300-1438614922_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-65472300-1438614940_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-06270900-1438614952_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-44535700-1438614962_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-07737800-1438614970_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-43169200-1438614988_thumb.jpg

rear oil drain is not required(doesn't work anyway, same deal with the mines triple flow baffles) if you got the block to head restrictor size matched to your oil pump you will be sweet. I ran a .9mm restrictor with a Reinmax pump(JUN pump flow). The solid lifters don't require a great deal of oil.

The EFR turbo's have a turbine speed limit(560m/s for the 8374). It is a very good idea to run their speed sensor(with a road rage gauge) to ensure you stay below this limit other wise they will eventually spit the Gamma Ti turbine out the exhaust. Many teams running the EFR will dyno tune and then put new turbo's on prior to each race as they run at or above the turbine speed limit. Anti Lag also isn't a good idea. Apart from that they are the best turbo in the world.

Matt

oh, also. Run redline lightweight gear oil in your box. I blew 13 boxes then changed oil..blew none. Don't flat change with the std box and you should be good. R32 gearbox runs different energiser clip than the series 3 33 GTR. If you do replace the box get the Series 3 33 R box.

The EFR vband outlet is a weird size that only BW sell

have you sorted suspension? If not take a look at MCA reds www.mcasuspension.com

Edited by BoostdR

Thanks for the feedback. I'm aware the rear head "drain" really isn't required...but I had purchased it (as well as the Mines baffles) last year prior to knowing that...and I had welded a fitting into the front of my oil pan already for a return (there are 2 there, one for this, the other for the catch can setup) so what the heck I'll block it off if I really don't see a need for it.

I'm running the stock Tomei restrictor and their oil pump on high-flow mode. I also will be running 2 cyclonic separators and then a catch can. I have lots of plumbing to do while I wait on the Hypertune.

And yes the turbine speed gauge is high on my list, but not until we get the initial tuning and break-in done. I will be running low boost until I get that based on the fact that I'll be on the Haltech internal sensor (limited to 22 psi) and the Mid-range EFR boost cannister (20.6 psi). I think the car should still be a rocket on pumpgas with those components.

Thanks again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...