Jump to content
SAU Community

Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau


Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

so that reminds me of the old joke....

what's yellow and purple and has 13 nipples?

yes, a bloody gtr race car.

over the last few weeks the focus was getting Neil's radical running for the first round of the hillclimb champs,  which we just managed (well, I did a bit but f**k all overall). but in any case I hadn't touched my car since mid jan until the other day.

so I spent the weekend bleeding stuff, 4 calipers with 2 nipples each, abs with 2 nipples, attessa with 2 nipples, and the strangely uni-nippled clutch. looks like I've got good pressure in all of them now but it's hard to be certain until it drives.

I haven't got the car started yet, I tried both the Haltech and the PFC and it cranks but doesn't run. The PFC continually resets so I assume it's a problem with the ECU power (i removed the ECCS relay).  Time is a bit tricky at the moment because we are moving to the country, eating a lot of peaches, but I'm still hoping to get it running first.

 

Have you thought to rule out the power issue to give it direct power?

This also brings me back to when you rewired Neils car, from memory you had the same problem and found that there was a second power wire that had been disconnected. That raise any memories? Or am I just going mad? ha ha

PS: If it still doesn't start I have a hammer you may borrow ;)

you're spot on Matt, that's why I'm going down the dangerous path of assuming that same symptom means same problem.  In the gtst (which had always run fin on the stock computer), when we put a powerFC in we had put a fuse into an existing but empty circuit in the fuse box. Without it the PFC constantly reset, with it in it worked perfectly.

I'm getting the same symptom here so I'll just start with checking the various 12v wires in the engine loom have power when they are meant to....if it's the only mistake I've made after this much rewiring I'll be surprised.

  • Like 2

well, I made a little progress.

first up I worked out an issue with the ECU wiring; basically IGN signal in a 32 goes from the key to the DS firewall grommet to the front engine bay fuse box to the stock boost controller (of all things), around the front of the engine bay, along the strut tower, through the PS firewall grommet and into the ECU.  All of which would be fine if I hand't assumed that only the boost controller used that source in my car now and wired it to the boost controller switch.  So for now boost has to be on either high or low for the ECU to receive the IGN signal and start up properly.

So that got the powerfc behaving properly, but despite some further stuffing around the car still doesn't start. I then plugged the haltech back in (properly this time) to check everything there (it shows way more inputs and sensors) but I still couldn't work out the issue and decided to give up and take it to someone who knows what they are looking at. I expect to post up again afterwards saying I was out of fuel or something stupid like that.

Anyway, so I focused on the next step instead, getting the car rolling again. Wheels are on, brakes working, everything tightened up (oh except the front driveshafts, and all the ball joints which I better remember....). She's back on the ground, rolling, and godzilla approves

gtr-has-landed.jpg

  • Like 1

so anyway, the next (actually final) big job of the reco is painting the interior and fixing the exterior. And no I'm not trying DIY, I've done that before (on the nugget) and it looked really shit.  I'm not trying to make a showcar but I do want it tidied up.

so back out with everything in the interior, wiring, seatbelt mounts and eye bolts, boot release, gear shift etc, looking really empty, again

empty-again.jpg

Next up is vaccum then wipe down with wax and grease remover, then tape up and ship it off to the painter.

Also need to remove all the stickers, even the ones that have been on there for 10 years and will pull the paint off because I'm getting them to clean up the outside as well

I decided to move onto the painting now, because in big news for us, we've bought a place outside Sydney near Goulburn and are selling our current place over the next few months.  I really needed the car rolling and OK to move so I decided to get it ready for painting instead of trying to spend weeks on the ECU.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, Duncan said:

....................................

I decided to move onto the painting now, because in big news for us, we've bought a place outside Sydney near Goulburn and are selling our current place over the next few months.  I really needed the car rolling and OK to move so I decided to get it ready for painting instead of trying to spend weeks on the ECU.

Bought near Goulburn eh, Wakefield Park?

  • 1 year later...

So I can't claim to be moving quickly (but then again this build never has....) but the car is in the paint shop now.

Initially they thought they were going to just even up the current surface a bit and respray it....I did warn them this was the 4th time the car had been painted.

As you can see, after they got started and saw what they are in for, they are taking most of it back to bare metal to prep, prime and paint. Car should be about 50kg lighter now too.

gtr-paint1.jpg

Also fixed the small modification I made against the bank at Targa High Country.

gtr-paint2.jpg

They are doing inside and out, should be back in a few weeks. The only real challenge has been the front windscreen which is pretty much irreplaceable being one of Dell's heated ones. They are very nervous about taking it out knowing how hard and expensive it would be to replace....

  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...

Well I haven't yet seen how the car turned out, because Kel and I borrowed a dirty evo and went and did Targa Tas last week.  We took "Lucky" the evo which has all sorts of problems each time she competes but never fails to finish. In our case it blew a cooler pipe about 1klm into a 25klm stage turning it into a mirage instead of an evo for the next 10 minutes, but otherwise it did well.  We ended up 8th in Early Modern and would have been 5th without the cooler pipe issue which is OK for a pretty rookie driver (although the nav was awesome all through).

The main thing I remembered from doing Targa High Country a few years back was that tyre wear can be a killer, so I tried to minimise it

saving-tyres1.jpgsaving-tyres2.jpgsaving-tyres3..JPGsaving-tyres4.jpgsaving-tyres5.jpgsaving-tyres6.jpgsaving-tyres7.jpg

Oh, and well done to Liam and Larry for second in Early Modern.....great effort for the week :)

  • Like 8
  • 6 months later...

So, Kel is off rallying again and I thought if I don't do some work on the car it may not just finish itself....

The car is back from paint and there is no longer any evidence of that small issue on the nav side where the road was a little narrow that the driver thought.  They've painted the inside too so it's time to put the wiring back in.

Did some more labelling of the wire because I hadn't finished them all

wiring-labelling.jpg

Ran the wiring to the back of the car

wiring-rear2.jpg

And into the boot. That would have all been done back there but the shop didn't attach the rear bar properly so its off again for now

wiring-rear1.jpg

Also go the main/dash wiring mostly sorted.  The smartwire is mounted on rubber mounts to help keep it alive longer.

wiring-dash1.jpg

Mounted it up

wiring-dash2.jpg

All the wiring back in and connected up on the middle and driver's side. Looks like a damn mess but its actually pretty sorted, most of the hanging stuff is for dash and switches

wiring-dash3.jpg

Still have work to do on ECU mounting and wiring on that side. Maybe another 6 months. Or tomorrow.

  • Like 1

So, got a bit more done today.

Since I've gone haltech I need to mount a heap of little boxes.  So back in the day the fabricator made up an MDF dummy but I needed to do it in carbon fibre (becaues race car)

wiring-ecu-1.jpg

 

So, taped up the cf sheet and copied across the pointswiring-ecu-2.jpg

 

A little hacksawing and drilling, and it looks like this.  Again I've used rubber mounts to insulate the electronics a little from race car bumps

wiring-ecu-3.jpg

Mounted up in place in the passenger footwell, tucked up behind the roll cage, all wiring in.

wiring-ecu-4.jpg

That's pretty much it for now

wiring-ecu-4.jpg

I also mounted up all the rest of the interior wiring; rallysafe, GPS for dash, camera, intercom all in.

Unfortunately the next step is to redo the dash, since the last one had an uncovered trailer/truck related issue which made it flatter than it needs to be. I also have to put a big more wiring back in underneath (main fuel pump, fuel pressure and e85 sensors, o2 sensor) and a bit in the engine bay too...then it should be right to put the battery back in and see what I've done wrong in the wiring...

 

  • Like 6

Great to see you are making progress buddy, pity your 3.5 hours away or I would help.

Post some pics of her painted please.

Funny enough, I had a shit day at work and thought I would read your whole thread, cheered me up, thanks.

Cheers

 

  • Like 1

Thanks Troy. Did I see right that you took yours to Bathurst the other week? Must have been fun, and plenty of space to let it stretch it's legs there....

Anyway, here's some exterior pics....keeping in mind it's had 15 years of racing and rallying so like most race cars it is only expected to look good from a distance.....

I think it is bright enough, should be easy to spot in a carpark, and come up well in pics/tv

repainted-2.jpg

repainted-3.jpg

repainted-1.jpg

Didn't get a lot done this weekend as I was out fighting blackberries again.  Just sorted the engine bay wiring but needed to get it up on stands to deal with the wiring in the inner guard and under the rear. The quick jacks are a good thing but not really that quick (a bit fiddly to get right) and mega heavy to move

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...