Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

There doesn't seem to be a great deal of information how best to mount an external gate off the exhaust housing.

I recently finished building a steam pipe manifold for my SR and deliberately didn't include an external gate as it makes the most sense to me to evenly bleed the exhaust gases from the highest pressure point, which would be the exhaust housing, plus i wanted to be a little different.

It doesn't seem to be all that common to mount the external gate off the housing, i am curious to how far i around on the housing i should weld it onto and also which way to face the pipe. A lot of the housing's i have seen face the pipe in the same direction to gas flow of the housing, but shouldnt the gate be mounted at a 90 so that it isnt the easiest path for the gases to travel?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451509-external-gate-in-exhaust-housing/
Share on other sites

the most optimal angle to not impede 'flow' i've attached a snipet from turbosmarts installation guide.

How have you managed to mount the gate like that on a standard low mount?

I have got a mate who is going to weld onto the cast housing but he only wants to weld on a 90" off the housing to ensure its strong and to allow the tig to get into there, which is going to make it hard to not impede the flow some what.

The other issue is my manifold is top mount, ideally to limit impeding flow i could come somewhere off where the housing starts to curl around after the straight to the flange, but i might be limited by space.

Mine is mounted off the exhaust housing. It probably could be better angled but I didnt really have the room. All good, seems to work fine:

20131024_173749_zps01749055.jpg

So you have ran this and have no problems? Because it seems to go in an opposite direction to the flow?

The logic is simple. When the wastegate is shut all of the exhaust will go through the turbo. When the wastgate opens if the path is not direct much (or too much) of the exhaust will continue to flow through the turbo leading to overboosting.

Here's how mine goes:

post-49463-0-52442300-1418017474_thumb.jpg

The optimal mounting is to improve gas flow, which increases top end power. Simply venting the pressure at a 90 may hold boost well enough, but the gains won't be as great in my experience.

This setup I do works very well, but I spend a lot of time die grinding the inside to get a smooth path into the gate. External gate housings are obviously preferred.

post-63525-0-05491300-1418045082_thumb.jpg

Thanks for all of the pictures and ideas guys,

It seems since it is a pressure system the angle doesn't greatly affect the ability to hold or vent boost, but isn't giving the best performance, but realistically my biggest issue is going to be space.

Obviously the shorter the runner to the waste gate the better, but should that be a priority over angle?

If you were running a GT30 internal, then switched to an external with optimal flow, power difference atw will be less then 10hp

The internals are at 90 deg, which isn't great but will really only overboost on big engines with a small (relative) turbo/housing, the Xr6t is an example.

  • Like 1

Well the TD06 10cm was good for around 50kw more. Smaller housings will react better to external gates as opposed to the 1.06 Garrett internal, and such a simple way to get the results of a good top mount.

I thought making 430kw from the stock rb25 manifold was proof enough... Don't mistake boost control with the gate's ability to flow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...