Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Nuts

djr81

By djr81,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

djr81
djr81

Tell that to the tyre shop nugget with the rattle gun.

Neil
Neil

I bought these off ebay australia they are great. Just did a quick search as I couldn't remember who I bought them off but there are tons of options. Cheers Neil.

Duncan
Duncan

I said flange, and then Roy said he greases his nuts. Then Neil got all serious again

Posted Images

Whoa Black Boaty Proficient

Whoa Black Boaty

Posted
Posted

A lug nut or wheel nut is a fastener, specifically a nut, used to secure a wheel on a vehicle. Typically, lug nuts are found onautomobiles, trucks (lorries), and other large vehicles utilizing rubber tires.

Jdm - Japanese Domestic Market

just32gtr Enthusiast

just32gtr

Posted
Posted

Don't know if this helps mate I used arp studs on my gtr. I bought the wrx kit for the front and rears. Fronts pressed straight in. the rear was a bit tighter to press in so a light file to help them go in all was needed and used Advan steel lug nuts open end.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't know if this helps mate I used arp studs on my gtr. I bought the wrx kit for the front and rears. Fronts pressed straight in. the rear was a bit tighter to press in so a light file to help them go in all was needed and used Advan steel lug nuts open end.

The reason for them being "A bit tight" was because the fronts and rears are different. Fronts are a 14.3mm (0.565") knurl (ie as per Subaru) and the rears are 13mm.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

And nothing wrong with ALU, just torque them to spec.......

that's not really my experience. I never had a failure or one come off but I was not happy with the wear on the flange where they seat on the wheels or the fact that they didn't always hold at the torque they were set to. I've been a lot happier since I changed back to steel

  • Like 1
hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

Rays Duralumin lug nuts look tasty...

And nothing wrong with ALU, just torque them to spec.......

weight reduction ftw.

100g of weight saving so close to the hub center is not worth didly squat.

My Rays Duralium nuts used to come loose constantly when torqued to spec. Think of the weight you'll save when a wheel comes off! :)

Cheap nasty steel wheelnuts are the way to go.

just32gtr Enthusiast

just32gtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Was going to drill out the rear hub but the hardened steel makes mince meat if drill buts so just went Nismo studs on the rear. Lol turned down the end so they are quick start like ARP and dropped off to zinc coaters with other bolts ... Overkill is my middle name :)

I ended up getting all the arp studs for cheaper than a rear set of nismo ones, good old gtr tax!

Edited by just32gtr
just32gtr Enthusiast

just32gtr

Posted
Posted

The reason for them being "A bit tight" was because the fronts and rears are different. Fronts are a 14.3mm (0.565") knurl (ie as per Subaru) and the rears are 13mm.

Yeah that's why I originally bought them because of the close sizing match

Whoa Black Boaty Proficient

Whoa Black Boaty

Posted
Posted

I got lock lug nuts and got a special tool to unlock. but it fits on and is only about 10-15cm long. can someone tell me what tool to use to loosen them. I need something with a long lever so i don't think pliers will work :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...