Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, been searching forums & Google for a while now struggling to find detailed info on my question...

I have an r33 gtst (engine out currently) hks 3037s top mount & many other mods including a genuine greddy plenum. My question is how do I go about gaining the midrange loss back from the plenum? A few posts in various forums said a spacer between the plenum & the head. So this leads me to my questions below

1. How thick should the spacer be?

2. Did it cause any fittment issues?

3. Can you use the same bolts to fit the plenum back on or longer ones to suit?

4. to people who have done this was it really noticeable dyno/road feel?

I'm not here to get plenum choice advice or what somoneones opinion on my setup is or why plazmaman this & greddy that...... just trying to find info on the greddy spacer idea & if it works well.... To anyone who has done this please shed some light on this topic, tell us what car/engine u have & how thick the spacer is + what were your gains.... Thanks in advance

Ps hope everyone had a merry Christmas & have a happy & safe new year!

Look at it this way, you have reduced runner length by heaps, a spacer will help a bit but not much compared to stock length, so I wouldnt expect a noticable result at all with a spacer.

Dammit Ben lol wasn't hoping to hear that haha nah cheers for the post mate I need to hear all the info on this so I can to see wether it's worth doing or not!

Gotta be a few people with RB25's, spacer fitted to their greddy plenum share your opinion/findings please

Another potential issue is moving the injectors back by the amount of the spacer. Not sure if it poses problems though.

An option would be to use the bottom half of the stock manifold and use a plazmaman style plenum which bolts up to that.

A while ago I had a jeep cherokee for some reason. Moment of madness.

Added a spacer under the throttle body as recommended by the Internet and car went substantially better. Spacer cost me nothing so I didn't care either way.

Inlet manifolds are weird things with all the science going on inside them!

I would give one a shot if cheap enough. I would not worry about moving the injectors back a bit, in some ways moving injectors back is a good thing.

I can help out if you want to get a spacer made. Even though I don't think it would be worthwhile!

Cheers

Ben

Edited by Ben C34

I'm with Ben on both of his posts.

Think of the spacer as buying you back a fraction of what you lost.

If it were me, I'd be looking at whether I could turn the last couple of inches of a set of stock runners into a spacer. That way you can retain the injectors in the original location. Then make the cut off ends of the runners into a suitable head equivalent flange for the Greddy manifold.

But before I did any of that I'd look to see if there was enough clearance to the brake master etc.

Awesome guys keep the posts coming!! Yeah I've been considering the whole injector thing & brake master issues....I was hoping there would be a few guys who have done the mod & can confirm for us! Cheers Ben I'll keep that in mind man appreciate it. Gtsboy that's some good thinking there

  • Like 1

Here's another question I'd like to throw out there......... On an RB25neo with a 3076r & plenty of other bolt ons what would give the best mid range torque & spool time out of these 3 forward facing plenum options:

1. Plazmaman plenum

2. Greddy plenum with a spacer

3. RB26 plenum with itb's

& I'm not talking about throttle response I'm talking about best mid range/less lag plenum! Interested in people's thoughts cause they are my 3 options from here on in. People who have done any of these setups please share your thoughts & to any lucky (or should I say unlucky person) that has done a couple of different setups in the quest of best mid range ff plenum please share your pain & gain

I'm going to vote for plazmaman. Having never tried any but based on how much effort manufacturers go to to get long runners. Even on large v8s long runners very time. Factory cars want torque, long runners win.

That's what my thoughts were until I was reading about the 26 itb plenum & when blitz did it to nomuken's car they gained power accross the whole rev range..... Just not sure if it's all true cause plazmaman guarantee their results & some people didn't get good results using that plenum so I'm worried same thing will happen with 26 plenum

Here's the link by the way to the blitz info hard to read in jap lol

http://www.ricohracing.com/ricoh-home/ricoh-home/rb25henkan/rb25_6ren.htm

Ps I can buy an adapter decently cheap to be able to put the 26 plenum on so price isn't the issue its just what will work best?

Gtsboy that's what I was hoping to hear but it seems like the people who have spacers on their greddy's are no where to be found or just don't wanna tell us lol

Any dyno results would end all the head scratching hahaha

A while ago I had a jeep cherokee for some reason. Moment of madness.

Added a spacer under the throttle body as recommended by the Internet and car went substantially better. Spacer cost me nothing so I didn't care either way.

Inlet manifolds are weird things with all the science going on inside them!

I would give one a shot if cheap enough. I would not worry about moving the injectors back a bit, in some ways moving injectors back is a good thing.

I can help out if you want to get a spacer made. Even though I don't think it would be worthwhile!

Cheers

Ben

hey ben,

was that a plastic type spacer that would also shield the heat soak off the head or was it alloy ?

hey ben,

was that a plastic type spacer that would also shield the heat soak off the head or was it alloy ?

Alloy, and between the throttle and manifold so no heat soak benefits.

In a nut shell.....generally speaking.....

The rule is longer ports are better for bottom end range, shorter ports for top end range.

The opposite goes for runner diameter, smaller dia runners for bottom end, larger dia runners for top end.

So something for pulling down low would have long narrow runners, a screaming high rpm big power engine build would have short large diameter runners.

Blackbox & GTRPSI thanks for the inputs.

By the sounds of it the plazmaman plenum seems to win in this situation now to find one for a neo at a good price ?

ps anyone with more info please throw your 2c in here

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...