Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great build mate. What are your aims for hp and 1/4 mile times?

Thanks mate. Not attempting to break any records id like to make close to 1000rwhp and keep things relatively reliable run high 8's with what appears a pretty complete nice looking car.

post-20010-0-73490700-1420761913_thumb.jpg

Rear bracket fabrication.

post-20010-0-06100300-1420762537_thumb.jpg

Mounting of the trans cooler assembly.

post-20010-0-47636100-1420762234_thumb.jpg

Manufactured a scoop to aid some airflow.

post-20010-0-10597100-1420762427_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-37989300-1420762488_thumb.jpg

Scoop back from the coaters

post-20010-0-40213200-1420762619_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-14848800-1420762706_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-03969600-1420762749_thumb.jpg

-16 dry break for filling the fuel tank. We wanted to keep the fuel tank as high as possible to gravity feed the mechanical fuel pump up front. By doing that it caused filling and fuel capacity issues if we used the factory filling location. Fingers crossed with a straight-ish run of -12 line and the biggest body highest flowing aeromotive inline filter we will supply fuel the length of the car without the need for a front mounted fuel cell. A lot of the muscle car guys run this system and said as long as you don't 60ft under 1.2 sec they have found this to work and keep things simple.

post-20010-0-19656000-1420762834_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-99276800-1420763859_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-51870400-1420763949_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-76107800-1420764127_thumb.jpg

Could've dropped some easy weight by ditching the exhaust but i prefer the sound through muffler and no screamers so we built a full 4.5" system using volvo 4.5" truck clamps as i couldn't sources 4.5" vbands at a decent price

post-20010-0-63261300-1420765032_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-35313100-1420765137_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-35088400-1420764226_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-44913100-1420765276_thumb.jpg

Built muffler to how we wanted it 4.5" inlet to twin 3.5" tips for the factory look haha only came in full packed with glass and steel wool at 12KG so not too heavy.

post-20010-0-42627900-1420764598_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-65834000-1420764697_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-67749900-1420764708_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-56024800-1420764723_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-58446900-1420765396_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-30665700-1420764737_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-00340100-1420764754_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-36842900-1420764772_thumb.jpg

Back from the coaters :woot:

post-20010-0-62664400-1420765476_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-63476900-1420765463_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ryan1200
  • Like 2

This is the stuff dreams are made of!! Simply beautiful work Ryan. Someone knows what they're doing, well done sir.

Very interested to know who is doing all the fabrication work?

Cheers mate appreciate you're comment. This is definitely my dream/ultimate build id been constructing this one in my head for a long time now and its finally about to come to life very exciting . All the design/fabrication work was done by Daniel from DTP motorsports his is a very very talented guy. Check out his Facebook page he goes to extreme lengths for the smallest details and that was just how i wanted this build..

  • Like 1

Coolant, Fuel and oil pressure sensors.

post-20010-0-64101500-1420782711_thumb.jpg

Removed standard chopper rings from the front driveshafts and replaced them with a less tooth item we had water jet cut to keep the new sensor and motec happy.

post-20010-0-28381600-1420782800_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-20089700-1420783098_thumb.jpg

Exhaust manifold pressure sensor arrangement. One copper tube from either side of the twin scroll.

post-20010-0-90770900-1420783126_thumb.jpg

Line lock solenoids and brake pressure sensor.

post-20010-0-66299200-1420783235_thumb.jpg

HKS Drag shocks with position sensors mounted. Purchased off yahoo japan cheap then had them rebuilt by MCA suspension.

post-20010-0-19780700-1420783296_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-57330800-1420783540_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Build of the new dash fascia.

post-20010-0-83050600-1421059630_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-20454700-1421059810_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-76227200-1421059835_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-07941800-1421059873_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-23688600-1421059900_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-81965000-1421059924_thumb.jpg

Once the standard fascia was how we wanted the final product it was wrapped in fibreglass and this plug was made. Undercoated then cleared and polished so the carbon didn't stick to the plug.

post-20010-0-25692300-1421059952_thumb.jpg

Heres the carbon going into the plug. We really need a vaccum bag setup to get a perfect finish for this job.

post-20010-0-29640200-1421060198_thumb.jpg

Finished product. Would've liked to have the bare carbon look but we got a few imperfection in the finish we couldn't hide so we painted to suit factory dash.

post-20010-0-79492800-1421060259_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-38999100-1421060386_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-58615300-1421060413_thumb.jpg

4 button steering wheel setup.

post-20010-0-17973200-1421061328_thumb.jpg

To save getting caught up in the wiring on the back of the wheel while your steering the thing a wood plug was made into a certain shape to cover the buttons. Then a thin sheet of ally was massaged around the timber to cover the wiring and also to mount to the wheel. Turned out great. :yes:

post-20010-0-13997900-1421061049_thumb.jpg

Chassis harness just completed and ready for install. Around 1400m of cable at this point in the chassis with the engine and ignition coil harnesses still to do. Mentioned in a previous post we're running a motec power distribution module this is a electronic relay/fuse box that can be programmed to perform functions like turn on & off pumps/solenoids/lights and really simplifies wiring. Only the engine thermo fan and lights couldn't be controlled by the power distribution module as we ran out of outputs. Some clever stuff can be programmed with this module.

post-20010-0-51237200-1421211426_thumb.jpg

One example is the 1st gear switch input for the ecu to lock out a transbrake launch/solenoid if your about to launch the car from a stop and your in second gear :whistling:

post-20010-0-72594100-1421211399_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-78767300-1421213509_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-35327200-1421213560_thumb.jpg

New adaptor plates made to convert speed sensors in the front hubs.

post-20010-0-16843200-1421214105_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-92884200-1421214191_thumb.jpg

Dash surround bracket.

post-20010-0-54335100-1421214230_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-64074200-1421214304_thumb.jpg

And the new 7" display thats just been released and for a change i didn't make a purchase just before the newer model came along lol

post-20010-0-54782000-1421214587_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ryan1200

Where did you get the Motec kit from if you don't mind me asking? What was the pricing like?

Mate I'm not going to lie its quite expensive gear. I actually purchased the M800 back in 2002 and is still current today where some guys might have had to upgrade twice since the early 2000's to expand there requirements. Each purchase was spread out over a few different cars iv built so not one big hit to the wallet haha :spank: You can email any motec dealer and they will email you retail price catalogue. Retail is what everyone pays unfortunately.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...