Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Neil my fabricator did the conversion for me he spent quite sometime looking for the correct bits from the wrecking yard ect. The pic and the info i posted gives you a starting point for the bits to look for but if you wanted him to do a conversion for you just need to send him the GTR parts and he will send you back the bits fabricated ready for install. Last person that asked he said $400. Sorry i couldn't be more help. If you want his details let me know. cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Engines in progressing slowly but surely.

post-20010-0-62134900-1432285683_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-45130700-1432285775_thumb.jpg

Completed wheel with terminated bulk head connector.

post-20010-0-95973300-1432285799_thumb.jpg

Speedflow bill this week :spank:

To avoid any problems associated with ethanol sitting in the fuel system for long periods we rigged up a fuel drain. The process will be drain the main tank add 98octane unleaded then connect into this quick disconnect fitting, rotate tap into off position which blocks return line feeding the tank then crank engine to purge remaining fuel in the lines and rail nice and easy.

post-20010-0-99934000-1432285907_thumb.jpg

Fingers crossed some bigger updates coming next week.

  • Like 2

What coils are you using ?

I'm looking at an upgrade at the moment and will most likely just go the LS2 route, I just noticed you have gone something else

Mick I'm running Honda Cbr bike coils with a CDI module powering them. Since buying the equipment i've heard some mixed opinions on the reliability of these coils so ill play it and see how they go. Being a complete OEM system with built in ignitors i think the LS2 route would be a pretty good option.

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

updates?

Yep updates coming finally got some spare time on my hands to start getting it ready for tuning... January is the target real keen to get it out for some roll racing at willowbank... Hopefully the smaller brakes to suit the 15" rims pull it up going into turn 1 >_<

Yep updates coming finally got some spare time on my hands to start getting it ready for tuning... January is the target real keen to get it out for some roll racing at willowbank... Hopefully the smaller brakes to suit the 15" rims pull it up going into turn 1 >_<

Just pull the 'chute... ;)

Found some second hand SSR's rims which we refurbished after making them fit. Took plenty of messing around though had to push the rim further into the guard by spacing the rim inwards by the way of 14" x 8mm ring that bolts between wheel center and rim. The 275/60 is 28" tall so placement needed to be spot on.

Just back from powdered coating today should look ok. :wub:

SP1's 15"x 9"

post-20010-0-26748800-1448542613_thumb.jpg

post-20010-0-03801700-1448543620_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...