Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I just bought a R33 GTS-T and it's a great car but the tyres on it are on there way out. I've been driving it around a bit and in the dry they seem ok but in the wet and not even on a hill there is no way I can take off without losing traction. Basically what I'm looking for is a set of tyres that have good grip in the wet and don't make too much noise.

What do you guys recommend? I am thinking of going with the Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE002.

By the way I did look at the sticky post but there is too many pages and different ratings on tyres. My price range is flexible, obviously cheaper the better but if I have to fork out for a good set I do not mind - probably keep it under $1000 for a set though.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452541-r33-gts-t-best-tyres-for-in-the-wet/
Share on other sites

KU31. Cheap, cheerful and they work.

KU36. Cheap, cheerful, stick like shit to a blanket, noisy as buggery, but worth it.

There are many other options, even some very cheap ones, such as the Federals, Achilles, etc.

Most serious brand (Goodyear, Dunlop, Bridgestone, Pirelli, Yokohama, Toyo, etc) tyres that are not really OLD (like the FK452) are going to cost more than $1k per set.

Perhaps I should confess that the 36s are not the BEST in the wet. They work fine in the wet, but they won't handle standing water. Not enough tread on them to pump a LOT of water. But I've never had low confidence with them in winter. Just don't lean on them cold, and don't try to tow skiers.

I'm a big fan of Maxxis tyres and they are more than reasonably priced. I have a pair of terrible tyres on the back of my GTST at the moment that came with the wheels I bought, they do the same thing in the wet as you describe. After a good research session the other day I settled on getting a couple of Maxxis MA-511 to replace them. They seem to be a newer version of the Maxxis MA-V1 which I have had a set on the front for years and can't say enough good things about.

A good tyre review and opinion site to check out and see how a potential purchase is going to stack up is http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/

Edited by Malakai

Nitto INVO tyres aren't too bad in the wet either and provide decent dry weather grip.. Great daily tyres IMO and not too noisy.

At the same time, perhaps look at lightly shimming up the diff OR just going with a new mechanical diff. I find the stock VLSD likes to single peg on days, it's very temperamental like a female.

I'm running Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 2 in 17" and they are really quite good in both dry and wet. Paid about $900 new for a set online. Always check the date of manufacture before buying though.

I'm running Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 2 in 17" and they are really quite good in both dry and wet. Paid about $900 new for a set online. Always check the date of manufacture before buying though.

I just took a set of those off my car. Totally underwhelming tyre. Not awful. Just.....not great. Only lasted 12000km.

I just took a set of those off my car. Totally underwhelming tyre. Not awful. Just.....not great. Only lasted 12000km.

Interesting, what did you have prior and what are you running now, out of curiosity?

KU36 before. And oddly enough, KU36 again. I was actually intending to get RS-3s, but they're unavailable for the next 3 months.

The Goodyears had this horrible tendency to judder as I turned out of my driveway (like......really really low speed understeer!). I spent ages trying to work out if it was a tyre issue or an alignment issue, including spending on 2 extra alignments that the car wouldn't have gotten. So, on the Tuesday morning with Goodyears on it judders on the way out. On the Wednesday morning with the KUs on, no judder. I think that answered that question. That sort of crap pretty much explains my experience with the Goodyears.

I've used KU36 probably 7/8 years ago - wasn't a total fan of them to be honest..

But then again, they were never taken on the track. I found they did like to understeer until it had some decent heat through them

Maybe. Dunno about that pricing here in Adelaide though (as in, getting Nitto for pricing that's competitive with the KU36 price). The Tyrepower store I use are good blokes who are aware that I have previously bought in tyres from the eastern states and from the US to get good stuff at good pricing, and so they tend to offer me the best pricing that they can. They handle Nitto also, and the pricing on them was not attractive last week.

I'm up for new tyres soon too, not sure I want to put NT01s at the rear.. that might result in a broken gearbox :(

I'm running NT01 at the front, surprisingly they're not too bad in the wet!

Ive got Hankook Ventus 452s on the mrs car and also on my XR6 work ute which has an alloy tray and even in the wet in 1st gear the traction control light doesn't come on! Pretty impressive all rounders actually. They are quiet with very good grip wet and dry are reasonably priced.

I also am not a fan of the KU36. The RS-3s shit all over them in all conditions and are also probably a bees dick quieter. But they aren't what you'd call quiet lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...