Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Motorkhana happened, twas awesome.

Nothing broke, it held up really well, water temp didn't go over 94, and oil 95.

post-89929-0-09491300-1425372972_thumb.jpg

Decided to get somewhat more serious about track work, its way more fun than owning a loud sound system,

post-89929-0-75370900-1425373015_thumb.jpg

so old mate Sean came over and we started stripping her down.

post-89929-0-39556100-1425372895_thumb.jpg

All up including boot liner, subs amps head unit 4 speakers a tv and a ps4, it weighed around 130kg!!

noticed a difference in performance after this!

post-89929-0-92122500-1425373064_thumb.jpg

Still gotta do something about all that dynamat, it must weigh a tonne.

Changed spark plugs today coz never done it before since owning car, put in BCPR6ES-11,

post-89929-0-49104000-1425373154_thumb.jpg

Just heard from Scotty that my intake pipe and injectors are on their way, so all thats left is to see Tao at Hypertune to have my stock turbs high flowed.

At this stage I owe a thanks to -

TDR tuners in North Geelong, put a decent tune on my piggy back system.

SAU - tutorials on the forums, good advice, and chit chats with members.

Auto Pro Drysdale - for supplying me with my oils, filters, fittings, and all other random things for a discounted price!

TAS weld Moolap - for welding on intercooler (macko job).

Jessie Street - Because Jessie Streeter is a fkn BAWS.

Dad, and all my mates for pitching in.

and probably some others. Thanks to you guys for getting me where I am right now :)

Great Ocean Road cruse coming up this weekend, then I think I'll pull the car off the road and install power fc, z32, injectors, high flow turbo, and then put it back together and get it tuned on E85.

More updates soon.

post-89929-0-73070100-1425372768_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

When the time comes for a tune I'll have a fresh set gapped down to .8

Plugs might get fowled during tune though?

I wonder if fouled plugs would affect tune? I'm going through race pace so I doubt it will be an issue.

but for now running 11-12psi so she'll be right

Things are moving along faster than expected, had a friend help me start re-spraying the bonnet, front bar and lip (still got from 1/4's and side skirts to come) just to remove any stone chips and crap.

post-89929-0-31945100-1425815505_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-59597100-1425815740_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-45210200-1425815848_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-52291400-1425816054_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-15406400-1425816093_thumb.jpg

Embedded the top gear logo into the paint, just trying something new. turned out sweet!

And while he was doing that I started removing my turbo - taking it to Tao tomorrow for his high flow service.

post-89929-0-73626600-1425815665_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-06732700-1425815955_thumb.jpg

Also will install everything form here, injectors, z32, power fc, waste gate, earls braided lines etc etc...

Then throw it on a trailer and take it to Race Pace.

post-89929-0-36328200-1425815459_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Slight change of turbo, not getting my stock OP6 high flowed because full boost by 4k rpm is too laggy for me. So found a 21U (r33 standard) and am having that high flowed instead (full boost by 3500rpm). going to race pace wednesday

Slight change of turbo, not getting my stock OP6 high flowed because full boost by 4k rpm is too laggy for me. So found a 21U (r33 standard) and am having that high flowed instead (full boost by 3500rpm). going to race pace wednesday

Who's highflow didn't make full boost til 4000rpm? I'm sure that can't be right, my SS2 makes full boost at around 3700rpm and it's low mount internal gate

^ your lucky buddy my ss2 makes full boost at 4000.. mine has a few restrictions though.. dan and i spoke to stao in person he said his op6 highflow will make full boost at 4k rpm

Same here, my low mount stock mani ATR43SS2 is currently making 275rwkw on 98, full boost at just over 4000rpm. Certainly a lot less responsive than my stock OP6 @ 200rwkw.

  • Like 1

Same here, my low mount stock mani ATR43SS2 is currently making 275rwkw on 98, full boost at just over 4000rpm. Certainly a lot less responsive than my stock OP6 @ 200rwkw.

Got a build thread mate? Or specs list? Send us a pm bro

Got a build thread mate? Or specs list? Send us a pm bro

No build thread at present but here's the spec list and dyno sheet: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?p=7370873

  • 4 months later...

So had the car tuned on E85 at RacePace, the car came out with an impressive 300+ mw's and some incredible torque figures.

The car was making full boost just like a standard turbo!

post-89929-0-61495100-1438757892_thumb.jpg

Went and did a track day at sandown and ran a best time of 1:35, and absolutely cooked the brakes, so upgraded to EBC track pads (blue stuff)

post-89929-0-89351100-1438757951_thumb.jpg

Went to Phillip Island with the new brakes, and they worked a treat.

Ran a best time of 1:59

post-89929-0-96496500-1438757991_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-40209600-1438758000_thumb.jpg

I've made other minor changes like changed the exhaust system to 3" pipe into the 6" cannon, makes the car a lot louder.

and coil overs, I'd like to do a beginners drift day to see how I like it so setting up the suspension and handling accordingly.

Thats all for now, more updates to come soon :)

  • Like 3

Nice build thread mate. Good to see you finally moved on from the stereo :P
I can't make too much fun, I went through the same phase back in the day, just not in a Skyline haha. Nice responsive power figure from the setup too.

Besides trying out some drifting whats the plans? Personal recommendation regarding any track attendance, besides practice practice practice, would be to chuck some bigger swaybars on there. Made a world of difference on my GTT :)

Hey Tim, the next plans would in fact be sway bars, I've been looking and researching them recently, was going to get a thick 27mm for the rear to really get it sideways, I'm still undecided where I want to go next, I don't want to drift (this car) professionally coz it will get wrecked! I just want to do a beginners/learners day and give it a decent crack.

Otherwise I'd have to say I really enjoy motorkhana, its not as serious as track days, also I'm going to run it down the quarter mile soon to see what it can do :P

What size sways bars did you buy? thoughts on going for a 27mm for rear straight away?

Good plan :)

I started thrashing my GTT with motorkhanas, progressed to drifting, got sick of breaking things and have now moved to circuit/hill climb/supersprint.

I have Whiteline 24mm adjustable front and rear. The rear has always been at its stiffest setting (made a huge difference when I was drifting) and the front was in the middle to begin with but I have stiffened it right up now too since moving more towards grip.

If you have any questions don't be afraid to shoot me a PM :)

Thats good to hear Tim, I thought the 27mm for the rear was a bit too much, is yours a S2? do you have the helical diff? I thought I had shagged it out at a track day when it was single pegging out of corners, turns out it was just shit grip/ to much low pressure. You ever had any dramas with your diff?

where did you get your sway bars from? ebay?

And thanks Peter :)

all good, ebay has them at decent prices, and is your 34 a S1 or 2? I believe that the S1 had some crappy mechanical LSD like the r33 but the S2 (mine) a more betttererer helical that was apparently made by true track?

Mine is a 1998 model so it would be an S1. I believe it had a torsen diff? Not too sure, didn't look in to the stock diffs too much, just knew it wasn't sufficient for my needs haha.

Ebay pricing is usually pretty reasonable. Someone on SAU (I think it was sydneykid or someone?) sells kits and can get the swaybars too, otherwise maybe chek out the SAU traders as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...