Jump to content
SAU Community

Black R34 Gtr V Spec Ii - Paint Correction Project

PM-R33

By PM-R33,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Thought I would chuck this up here in case people wanted to see photos of the process :)

Vehicle: 2001 Nissan R34 GTR V Spec II

Package: Paint Correction

Condition: Unfortunately just because someone is a “professional” doesn't always mean they are good at what they do. Take this R34 GTR for example that the unlucky owner had to take to numerous different spray painters to get the job done to an acceptable standard and this is what he unfortunately was left with. While holograms are cool on trading cards, they are not cool on your paint. This is where we stepped in to correct the shoddy work done by someone else.

The vehicle was covered in major swirl marks throughout the paintwork and had bad water etching on numerous panels. The bonnet had the most holograms throughout followed by the whole drivers side of the vehicle. Holograms are caused during machine polishing when either not done with correct technique, using dirty pads, using poor quality product or a mixture of all three.

Process: The vehicle was foam decontaminated to remove loose dust and dirt followed by a two bucket hand wash. To remove any overspray, the whole vehicle was clayed and then finally dried. All rubbers, plastics and badges were taped up to avoid getting damaged or while polishing residue on them during the paint correction stage. Using a paint depth gauge the panels were measured and it was found that the roof had a scary amount of paint left. Extra care had to be taken on the roof and heavy compounding was avoided in this area.

The vehicle was compounded using Menzerna FG500 on a rotary polisher followed by polishing with PF2500 using a DA polisher. Finally the paintwork was “jeweled” using SF4000 and an extremely soft Menzerna pad on a medium speed backing off pressure during the final pass. This was done to extract extra lustre from the paint.

Following paint correction the vehicle was covered in Duragloss’ bonding agent and Duragloss’ wet look sealant. The bonding agent is a fairly unique product from Duragloss as it is applied to the paintwork but not removed. The second product goes directly on top of the first and once dried they are removed together acting similar to a Part A/Part B epoxy. This gives the polymer sealant much longer durability.

The results were spectacular with a complete change in the way the vehicle looked. Extreme amounts of gloss and depth were achieved with an extremely wet mirror finish!

Time Taken: Approx 20 hours

All the photos are on the website or Facebook page if you want to see more. www.facebook.com/ATD.AttentionToDetail

Thanks for looking :)

Phil

20140621_145421-845x684.jpg

20140621_145439-845x684.jpg

20140621_144530-845x684.jpg

IMG_2339-845x684.jpg

IMG_2374-845x684.jpg

IMG_2383-845x684.jpg

IMG_2408-845x684.jpg

IMG_2476-845x684.jpg

IMG_2451-845x684.jpg

IMG_2497-845x684.png

IMG_2517-845x684.jpg

IMG_2520-845x684.jpg

IMG_2579-845x684.jpg

IMG_2590-845x684.jpg

IMG_2618-845x684.jpg

IMG_2585-845x684.jpg

IMG_2633-845x684.jpg

IMG_2577-845x684.jpg

  • Like 1
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

What do you mean Ben? On the 50/50 photos? I thought it was quite obvious.

Sorry dude , left off the smiley face.

It is heaps obvious and completely amazing!

Massive improvement.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ah ok got ya Ben haha.

Yes the roof was extremely thin. Obviously been polished a few times in its life. I dare say it has under 15 micron of clear coat left so I didn't dare remove to much even though a few deep water marks still remained. Better to have a few water marks that you need to squint to look at then to have clear coat failure lol.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Forget Canberra. I only want you to come to Mackay :P

If you ever feel like a working holiday, I'd be more than happy to pay for you to come make my car look that amazing

As always Phil, Amazing job.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I'll see what I can do. I'd love to get my paint finished. Its a bit of a mix at the moment. Have old original paint on half the panels, The roof was resprayed and I'm not real happy with how they blended it, and I have pretty much brand new paint on the front end. It could use with a good detail and some paint protection :)

I might ask around and see what I can work out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...