Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Location: Perth, W.A.

Price: $125,000.

Genuine BNR34 GTR V-Spec N1 for sale. Current mileage shows approx. 17700km.

The chassis numbers were run through Nissan confirming genuine N1. The N1 block is stamped 24U, It has a larger factory oil cooler, no air-conditioning, black side mirrors, no stereo and no rear wiper arm.

The standard size wheels with the car were BBS RG-R in Diamond Black, which from what we can tell may have been an alternative factory option, considering also that BBS made the standard BNR34 GTR wheels.

Log books are present and maintained, and current registration is until September 15.

The car has the following modifications:

-Nismo 320km.h dash,

-Nismo expanded MFD,

-Nismo Weldina Exhaust - cat. back,

-Nismo G-Attack R-Tune coilovers,

-Nismo Circuit Links and Stabilizer kits, and

-Nismo Nismo R-Tune Brake Pads.

-Nismo full intake piping kit,

-Nismo Intake Plennum,

-Nismo Fuel Pump,

-Nismo Fuel Regulator,

-Nismo Oil/Air separator,

-Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch,

-Nismo Smoke Indicators (still have std.),

-Nismo duracon gear shift knob (also, still have std.), and

-Nismo floor mats.

Non-factory fitment:

-Falken ZE912 @85-90%,

-Cusco adjustable rear uppers (to fix camber after reducing ride height with coilovers),

-Cartracks Alarm/vehicle tracking system,

-Window tint, legal, and

-Odyssey PC680 AGM Battery.

For me, the car has been a weekender and as a result I have been able to take every opportunity to avoid driving in the rain, however, it was of course driven as such a couple of times.

Servicing was predominantly undertaken by Fabcar in Perth, and by myself. Lubricants sourced from Japan and stuck with Nismo Competition Oil by Motul and i've stuck exclusively with BP 98 octane fuel.

There is absolutely no evidence I have found of any accident damage, and she has certainly been safe in my hands. Only a couple of imperfections on her. There's a couple of tiny scratches. One on the rear near the boot key, one on the rocker cover and some scratches on the plastic rear diffuser vanes. Pedals, gear shift boot and seats are all in perfect condition.

She also has one of the N1 stickers on the back that Terry had manufactured. Any further questions, please ask. Photos below.

More photos available on request.

Serious enquiries only please guys.

AliasJohn.


post-88059-0-25959800-1427200244_thumb.jpg

post-88059-0-96711000-1427200280_thumb.jpg

post-88059-0-71974700-1427200303_thumb.jpg

post-88059-0-11877500-1427200847_thumb.jpg

post-88059-0-32915200-1427201107_thumb.jpg

Edited by AliasJohn
  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455094-for-sale-1999-bnr34-gtr-v-spec-n1/
Share on other sites

PM NURVOUS and Edifier for starters. And if you'd like to PM me there's another person who might be interested on Fb. Wishing both you and the buyer the best. And of course the N1 itself. :)

  • Like 2

Who in their right minds will pay 125k for this? You can go get and R35 GTR these days for 90k so these are worth 50k max to me.

Lol.

Looks like you'd pay $30K for a Hakosuka too huh?

  • Like 3

Firstly, from Joey83's ridiculous post, it's more likely than not, he wouldn't even have the slightest clue of what a N1 is.

Secondly, good luck finding a GTR for $50,000, that hasn't been haircut, damaged, thrashed, and well maintained.

Thirdly, quite stupid comparing an R34 to an R35 GTR. R34 GTR in total has about 10,000 units worldwide, with limited release. Compared to the global worldwide release of the R35 GTR, which no doubt exceeds the units of total production world wide of the R34 GTR, in probably it's first year alone.

Alas, basic economics 101. Demand, Supply, Price.

Anyways, back on topic.

Good luck AliasJohn with the sale. A rare car indeed.

Kind regards,

Mathew

  • Like 4

Firstly, from Joey83's ridiculous post, it's more likely than not, he wouldn't even have the slightest clue of what a N1 is.

Secondly, good luck finding a GTR for $50,000, that hasn't been haircut, damaged, thrashed, and well maintained.

Thirdly, quite stupid comparing an R34 to an R35 GTR. R34 GTR in total has about 10,000 units worldwide, with limited release. Compared to the global worldwide release of the R35 GTR, which no doubt exceeds the units of total production world wide of the R34 GTR, in probably it's first year alone.

Alas, basic economics 101. Demand, Supply, Price.

Anyways, back on topic.

Good luck AliasJohn with the sale. A rare car indeed.

Kind regards,

Mathew

Think you need to take economics 101 again

Also http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454612-wa-1999-r34-nissan-skyline-gt-r-v-spec

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...