Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With all the decent stuff out today, you put something on from when T. Rex's were around. I just don't understand? Not having a go at all, each to their own...but really? lol

If you want "all the lag", why not just use 1/3rd throttle to 6000 rpm then plant your foot. Atleast then if you have to move quickly you have the choice.

  • Like 1

With all the decent stuff out today, you put something on from when T. Rex's were around. I just don't understand? Not having a go at all, each to their own...but really? lol

If you want "all the lag", why not just use 1/3rd throttle to 6000 rpm then plant your foot. Atleast then if you have to move quickly you have the choice.

Someone called?

Rawr

  • Like 1

With all the decent stuff out today, you put something on from when T. Rex's were around. I just don't understand? Not having a go at all, each to their own...but really? lol

If you want "all the lag", why not just use 1/3rd throttle to 6000 rpm then plant your foot. Atleast then if you have to move quickly you have the choice.

I like waiting.

With all the decent stuff out today, you put something on from when T. Rex's were around. I just don't understand? Not having a go at all, each to their own...but really? lol

If you want "all the lag", why not just use 1/3rd throttle to 6000 rpm then plant your foot. Atleast then if you have to move quickly you have the choice.

I'm in a similar boat.

Going back to big low mounts.

Hard to get new tech in direct bolt on.

No longer want a single.

And stuffing around with gtx cores and cost didn't appeal to me either.

  • Like 1

Not talking about your setup. I'm talking about turning the to 10,000 rpm and beyond for a car that's driven on the street. Is 8000 rpm not enough?

8000 was not enough when it did not get started until 6000rpm with the T78-33D :(

I'm used to waiting.

Between rebuilds.

Ha ha ha ha ha ha.

:(

You're not doing it right Luke, Paul has the right idea, overlap the builds and cut one out , you do not even have to waste your time driving it,LOL

You're not doing it right Luke, Paul has the right idea, overlap the builds and cut one out , you do not even have to waste your time driving it,LOL

The box will arrive this week. Should it put it in to make you happy? Haha

That's cause you obviously don't like fast gtrs

Whats the good of your car starting to go fast at 6000rpm as a DD, after I picked it up from the first final tune after I bought it , I wanted to sell the heap of shit on the way home.

So if you want a little spirited driving as a DD and you have to wind it up to 7000rpm and let it go to beat a Tiida, you can have your fast cars mate.

I know they would be good on the track once you have your revs up you can keep them there or drop a gear or 3, try driving like this on the road, give me a farken break.

Apart from the obvious problems, the car is "plenty fast" and I do not have to thrash the shit out of the motor to get it there, so all good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...