Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So if I go by that graph the 3.2L has 300KW at the same RPM as my 2.6 (pretty close).

How is that even possible? I guess if it had a torque graph (why?) then it would have a massive increase.

But it is stopping at 7000rpm. Please tell me I am reading it wrong.

Edited by Stixbnr32

Turbo is too small. Turbine housing too small which restricts flow and chokes the engine. In this scenario you have no choice but to cut boost.

It will be interesting to see what an e85 tune does because if it makes no significant difference then the turbo selection is the problem.

Why would boost need to be cut?

I have a .82 housing on mine and boost holds flat to 8000rpm

Edited by sky30

Yeah the graph is slightly strange isnt it.

Well as long as it feels good I guess it is ok. I still think 7000rpm is low but if the turbo cannot flow it no point revving anymore.

At least its not spluttering and leaking water.

That is a success.

I would have thought boost would have carried on the whole way through and if there were lean patches from fuel/spark they would have suggested a fix with the amount of money spent on the engine.

Have they had their top tuner leave recently or something?

The limiter is set at 8000rpm. On the first tune @ 8500rpm .

The PT6262 CEA is rated over 700HP, some blokes say they get more, why would it stop at 600HP ?

When the Turbo was put on he changed to a larger back housing , size ?

So the Turbo should be good for at least 700HP ?

Could it be the spark ?

Put it this way my turbos are rated at 650hp and I am not pushing them with the same power you have and my boost is 22psi.

What size are your injectors? They can tell straight away if it is running lean and pull boost. Only reason I can think of to pull it.

But they should tell you and then recommend a fix. No point even going near E85. Go from 24psi to 18????

The injectors are ID1300

It is definitely not as rich as it was, but still a little soot comes out on start, pretty normal but nothing like it was since the build , it was heavy.

Going to have a AF sensor installed. The Haltech R34 Pro has , Wideband “auto tuning” using user definable target AFR table. Not sure if that is the same function as a sensor ,but the next builder will know

I think the boost could have been pulled because it was still farting when the boost remained higher. Just an uneducated guess ?

The car will be checked and sorted out before or during the next tune , I am not going back to Sydney to do it. Looking for a shop closer to finalize the work I want done.

Until then I will just drive it and have some fun :)

Yeah just drive it :)

Fair enough on the travel factor. I am not sure about that tune.

But I am sure the engine is super strong and you will have a lump of torque down low.

I still have all the response in the world when my RPM is high :) hahah.

The limiter is set at 8000rpm. On the first tune @ 8500rpm .

The PT6262 CEA is rated over 700HP, some blokes say they get more, why would it stop at 600HP ?

When the Turbo was put on he changed to a larger back housing , size ?

So the Turbo should be good for at least 700HP ?

Could it be the spark ?

If the engine flows too much air for the turbo, it will choke, limiting achievable power and rpm levels required.

Same way as a 2.5-3" exhaust is fine for a stock motor, but not one with a bigger turbo/motor.

PJ has got the rated number and more out of a few PTE turbos, 2l, 4cylinder, 40+psi.

Anyone care to work out the equivalent flow of a 3.2l, 6 cylinder at half the boost?

If the engine flows too much air for the turbo, it will choke, limiting achievable power and rpm levels required.

Same way as a 2.5-3" exhaust is fine for a stock motor, but not one with a bigger turbo/motor.

PJ has got the rated number and more out of a few PTE turbos, 2l, 4cylinder, 40+psi.

Anyone care to work out the equivalent flow of a 3.2l, 6 cylinder at half the boost?

That's good and fine to work it all out on compressor maps, but on a 3.2 you have a shit load more volume through the turbine. if the the rear AR is too small then you get back pressure prior to the turbine which not only slows down gas velocity but creates all sorts of issues with cylinder pressure and combustion events. That's why you have to cut boost.

In a 4 cylinder you can run big boost because you haven't got the volume of gas, so exhaust gas speed dosen't suffer and you can run a lot more boost (compessor) through the same turbo because the exhaust gas volume is a lot less, so no back pressure issues therefore high gas speed through the turbine.

In Pete's senario he wants response so who cares about top end power, its really all over by 7000rpm ish and that's where he wants it.

Good turbo for response from lower rpm, crap turbo from 5500ish rpm and up.

Edited by XGTRX

That's good and fine to work it all out on compressor maps, but on a 3.2 you have a shit load more volume through the turbine. if the the rear AR is too small then you get back pressure prior to the turbine which not only slows down gas velocity but creates all sorts of issue with cylinder pressure and combustion events. That's why you have to cut boost.

In a 4 cylinder you can run big boost because you haven't got the volume of gas, so exhaust gas speed dosen't suffer and you can run a lot more boost (compessor) through the same turbo because the exhaust gas volume is a lot less, so no back pressure issues therefore high gas speed through the turbine.

In Pete's senario he wants response so who cares about top end power, its really all over by 7000rpm ish and that's where he wants it.

Good turbo for response from lower rpm, crap turbo from 5500ish rpm and up.

I agree, which is why I can't work out why people still want/expect it to be making 700hp
  • Like 1

have to see it through pete!!

I just got to know..

I do not know how to stop, haha

I will do the mods to finish the build off, I do not like taking a chance with the work that has been done. Do the surge tank and pod cover, plus a AF sensor if needed. The idea of making sure I have 1/2 or 1/4 tank before playing would drive me nuts.

I was thinking of trying a bloke in Port Macquarie but do not know anything about the shop.

Everything will be checked out, I have spoken to a shop in Gosford about the work and the tune. He seems to have a good reputation and I can get there and back easily, saves time and money :)

6262 is rated at 730hp, if there are no restrictions on the motor it should acheive close to that figure.

Peter, what wastegate and boost controller you got?

HKS, EVC 6 boost controller

Showed Paul some pics and he said it is looks like the old HKS wastegate ?

Everything will be checked out, I have spoken to a shop in Gosford about the work and the tune. He seems to have a good reputation and I can get there and back easily, saves time and money :)

Whats wrong with the tune? I thought it was all sorted

Edited by XGTRX

That is alot of boost drop. Either they didn't tune in the controller properly or they are pulling boost for a reason.

Either is likely in this case I suspect.

Covering up an ignition issue, or lazy. Take your pick.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...