Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys - I recently got a Skyline crossover - variously known as a Skyline Crossover, 370GT or Infiniti EX37. Anyway, mine is a J50 (RWD) Japan 2009 model.

I have a couple of cheap OBD2 readers and while they plug in, they can't speak to the car, even with some of the Nissan specific android apps which claim to send a Japan Nissan init string to get some data.

I'd love it if anyone was able to supply details of what SPECIFIC hardware and software combos they have used to get codes out of their 2009(ish) Japan sourced 370GTs. I'm hoping not to spend hundreds of dollars on a consult 4 (and I can't decipher what version of Consult I might need for mine).

Given the price of a service locally (which comprises an engine oil change, oil filter change, inspection of other fluids and brakes, and a code read), I'm keen to get myself a method to read the computer as I'm comfortable with doing the rest of the mechanical work myself.

Links to exact items would be hugely appreciated!

Cheers - Neil G

Consult 3+ or higher is the safe approach. I paid about $1500 or so for mine from Ali Baba, which is an exact replica of the Consult 3+ and comes with the Nissan software. Works great and has been an invaluable tool for me given I once needed to reset my steering angle sensor as well as a few diagnostic trouble codes brought on by my remote starter module. It is only reliable on a Windows XP OS. It is unstable on Windows 7, so unless there's a release newer than v15.12 out there to be downloaded, that's the only downside.

Links etc can be found in another thread in this forum. I'm on a mobile and at work so I'll leave the searching to you.

  • Like 1

You specifically need one that can deal with CANBUS. There are a few about, but you need to be a bit lucky, but most of them won't display all the data you need. People have gotten them to work on V36s, but I am not sure what brand units they are. Hopefully they will see this thread.

  • Like 1

My 370GT is using a normal Garmin OBD2 dongle to talk to my sat nav for trip computer and error code reading etc... I was lead to belive that these later vehicles are basically Infiniti's and so conform to the international standards, and so do not need Nissan specific codes and software.

Obviously Consult clones are the go for any serious work, but just wanted to make you aware that this Garmin bluetooth global dongle works fine on my skyline.

  • Like 1

Not sure with the V36. Buy I just use nissandatascan with my V35. Doesn't do everything, but let's me read and reset ECU, ABS and SRS codes, display lots of data. Not sure about TCU as I have a 6MT. Can also do st-angle adjustment and idle air volume adjustments. Also does immo keys if you know the BCM pin.

Ahhhh. I had a look at NissanDataScan a while ago but it appears that NDS3 is very recent. I'll give that a go. I think between the BT OBD2 things I have one of them is likely to be supported.

Thanks heaps for the reminder. I promise to report back if I have success (or otherwise)

(Still keen for a specific recommendation of hardware - The Garmin datapoint is useful - I'm at work and will look tonight as to whether it's a generic device compatible with non Garmin apps)

Cheers - N

I use a consult3 clone too.

Bought from this seller on Aliexpress, $129US .

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-New-Arrival-Nissan-Consult-3-III-Professional-Diagnostic-Tool-Nissan-Consult-III-Support-Muli-language/1741187697.html

Very cheap and so far functions very well.

Cheers.

Edited by mycarhasposessedme
  • Like 1

^^ I have been looking at these, and wasn't sure if they can do all the consult3 functions or not. Does it let you communicate and work with with all systems like the real consult3 does? (ECU,BCM,TCU,SRS,ABS,etc)?

Being a complete novice with the consult 3 software & the fact that I have not used a genuine consult 3 I'm really not qualified to compare the two.

That said, from my limited use of the unit so far, it does appear to do what the genuine unit can do.

Read the modules, clear codes etc, which i have done with it..

Cheers.

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a cheap ebay Bluetooth reader and it works really well. I use the Torque app.

I think I payed $25 delivered

But this is the third one I bought and the first one didn't work at all. Second one work only with the Fj Cruiser.

It is a hit and miss with the cheap ones.

Thanks for the reply. A friend went the icar3 with torque using iPhone. Works great. My head unit screen uses Bluetooth. I'm hoping to somehow to get it to display.

Stay tuned.

PS if you buy a used car and don't know the Bluetooth pin code? Try either 1234 or 0000.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...