Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i'm about to buy the built engine form my friend.. the head is ported, forged bottom, made 650whp on a mustang dyno with a PTE6466 ( I believe... or is it 6266? wtv lol!)

Problem is I was going to build mine and the build included a TOMEI pump and RIPS sump ( already bought). So, I spoke with my mechanic and he doesn't like the idea of doing that swap.

Reason being '' I know this engine run perfect and has no problem AS IS, i would hate to swap the nismo pump/greddy extension sump, install the tomei pump and rips sump and found out you have an oil problem or timing issues since we need to undo all that too. I would prefer to do a drop-in affair. ''

Your though ? Car will be ''spirited driving'' and see the drag strip on occasion. ( I wish to do some lapping/time attack, but i think it will never happens honestly..)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456324-nismogreddy-sump-vs-tomeirips-sump/
Share on other sites

Swap the pump!

Seen multiple failures with NISMO pumps (N1). If he cannot match the timing during the swap then get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

If its out now and you have the pump its a no brainer because when you run a bearing you will be so annoyed.

nismo pump and N1 are different items. The nismo pump has stronger gear than n1. N1 pump is 200 bucks. Nismo pump is 700. Its fine how it is, no need to really change in my opinion. I don't think he would have to overfill the sump since he has the sump extension already on there. That is the point of the extension, more oil.

N1 pump = 15010-24U01

Nismo pump = 15010-RR580

Edited by JTCC

Reason being '' I know this engine run perfect and has no problem AS IS, i would hate to swap the nismo pump/greddy extension sump, install the tomei pump and rips sump and found out you have an oil problem or timing issues since we need to undo all that too. I would prefer to do a drop-in affair. ''

Yep just keep going with what you have I reckon. This build feels like it's been about 10 years in the making, no point changing route now when I'm sure you've bought most of what you need?

What are the issues with N1 pumps? do they tend to smash the gears like the factory pumps? I'm about to use one on a new engine and I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to use some billet gears for it

I don't know what the issues are. There are stories that there were a bunch of knock offs at one time. My Rb30 has an N1 pump - no issues after about 30,000km including track but my rev limit is 7000 and I don't do do-nuts or any limiter bashing. A local engine builder who does a lot of race engines won't use them so I guess he has had a few failures but I don't know the details.

Guys, I'm talking about the true Nismo pump ( if it was a N1, i would've call it a N1 pump) its the Nismo selling close to 1000$. I just thought the 3piece of the tomei was a more solid design and flow a bit more oil so i went ahead and dropped the coin on it.

Rips vs the greddy= about the same amount of oil extra cc, but the rips sit higher so less chance of rubbing since I drive in the city a lot.

But then, why change a winning formula right ? lol

The gears are sintered and they are more prone to breaking. have a search

And the thickness of the ring gear in an N1 pump is less due to the extra tooth compared to a standard pump IIRC.

.....a genuine Nissan N1 pump ruined my first motor when the gears broke, I replaced it with a Nismo pump and had no issues with it, now have a Nitto pump on my RB30, and so far so good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...