Jump to content
SAU Community

Big Turbo Using Nos To Spool It.

MJTru

By MJTru,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Hi guys have any one done a setup using NOS to spool a big turbo.

I was reading on google that this is possible but cant seem to get my head around how the system would work. From what i gather you would need a fuel/NOS injector. But would it be before or after the TB.??

I also read that you would need a pressure switch to turn it on and off like a pressure switch.

From what i gather it basically get rid of lag and can leave with full boost.

Im look for a diagram of the lay out. Does anyone have any links to how it would be done. ?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456398-big-turbo-using-nos-to-spool-it/
Share on other sites
bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted (edited)

Pretty sure it depends what NOS kit you have etc

Everyone I know running it on rb25's has it controlled by the ecu (mainly Vipec) to switch on at 2500 switch off at 4500 ish rpm when Vct kicks in yo for the exact reason you state to take away a bit of lag

No diagrams or anything from me though sorry

Edited by bcozican
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was reading around. Please look at the attached photo. But after reading it and looking a zex kit thats ment to do the same thing. The info i believe said on number 7 to place the fuel/NOS injector after the TB. I thought it would be before. Im drag racing a gtr. Rb26. With a gt42r. Would like to leave with 30psi. At around 9k. Its getting a bit clear in my head and may just buy this zex kit but the pressure switch look weak.

post-37293-1430880525637_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14308805545473_thumb.jpg

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looking to spool the turbo with trying to cause a fire. But i have heard of many ways that system works. Some guys bypass fresh air and duct it in the runners of the turbo manifold. But lots of guys in the states are doing this NOS METHOD to get boost off the line. From what i hear it works good. Nothing like the old bang bang methods. I just thought i would read up on it before i experience it first hand. I lile to understand how things work in my head before trying them. Check out this link of a supra using it.

JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted

I was reading around. Please look at the attached photo. But after reading it and looking a zex kit thats ment to do the same thing. The info i believe said on number 7 to place the fuel/NOS injector after the TB. I thought it would be before. Im drag racing a gtr. Rb26. With a gt42r. Would like to leave with 30psi. At around 9k. Its getting a bit clear in my head and may just buy this zex kit but the pressure switch look weak.

Have a look here, it's a RIPS install from NZ...single fogger just before the plenum:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/75197-r-i-p-s-nitrous-install.html

snosinstall007cl7.jpg

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

This kind of depends on other aspects of the setup. Forgive me but is the car a GTR like your avatar picture? and will it be a manual trans?

Nos will help you get the turbo going when you're on the transbrake but if you're driving a manual 4WD then just set up launch control on your ecu with a clutch switch and full throttle launch it. Or am I missing something

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sadly i have a manual. But ive heard of guys having manual shift and still using nos to spool the turbo off the line. Using a boost switch to control the injection of nos. No thatd not the car im using in my profile photo. Its a r32 gtr

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

works killer best mod ever for big laggy turbos. even a 50hp shot can bring a big turbo on so much earlier.

Full throttle switch, arm switch and rpm switch are necessities, a decent ecu should have it there ready to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...