Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks a lot better! I've done my own and used a good quality plastic sealant on them - Hasn't returned for over 8 months now, It also makes it a breeze to get any bugs and dirt off the headlights too.

Your car looks very nice with the lights restored now

Looks a lot better! I've done my own and used a good quality plastic sealant on them - Hasn't returned for over 8 months now, It also makes it a breeze to get any bugs and dirt off the headlights too.

Your car looks very nice with the lights restored now

I thought about doing mine myself but then decided to get them done professionally. One of the lights has a crack and I was scared of making it worse. Hopefully the lights stay clean for a decent time.

Thanks for the offer but I think im done with the look of the car for a while. Just touch up the paint chips/scratches and it should be fine.

Im not looking at performance increases so exhaust and perhaps a boost controller.

Really tempted to go for a catback exhaust with a varex twin tip muffler...but that route is quite expensive compared to various other catback options.

Really tempted to go for a catback exhaust with a varex twin tip muffler...but that route is quite expensive compared to various other catback options.

If you can get your hands on a nismo exhaust, that will give a nice note without being Ott and breaking the bank.

Before you do power mods. Perhaps make sure your brakes are up to the task.

Definitely get a full exhaust system first though. :)

The car has new disks and pads, although I think the fronts need to be re-bed because they are still squeaky...and has had a full bleed and everything so it should be fine. I'm not chasing massive power, just something to play around with.

Really tempted to go for a catback exhaust with a varex twin tip muffler...but that route is quite expensive compared to various other catback options.

If you can get your hands on a nismo exhaust, that will give a nice note without being Ott and breaking the bank.

Yeah I have my eyes peeled for anything cool although im not a fan of the canon tips. The varex is expensive and I will spend some time saving up so who knows, something cool might come up.

Edited by shubby0901

Car had a thorough wash today to prepare for paint touch up. I had some paint colour matched and used a small brush to fill in all the small scratches and scrapes. Although not a proper fix, its better than nothing. The effectiveness of my paint skills will be seen in the morning when its all dry.

20151029_192857_zpsc6vw1rtv.jpg

Yesterday was 1 year of me owning the car. I had said 1 year I will drive the car as is, and so on its 1st anniversary with me, I bought a RB20 turbo. I've actually been looking for a RB20 turbo wastegate actuator but was unable to find one. I did however find a RB20 turbo with the actuator which I bought and removed the waste-gate from. Installation is easy but I need some new vaccum hose so off to the parts shop in the morning to grab some and finish the job.

Edited by shubby0901

Wait, so you're putting an rb20 turbo on?

Nope just replacing the RB25 waste-gate actuator with the RB20 one as it runs at a higher PSI. I will have to find something to do with the RB20 turbo, probably try to sell it.

Nope just replacing the RB25 waste-gate actuator with the RB20 one as it runs at a higher PSI. I will have to find something to do with the RB20 turbo, probably try to sell it.

I had this on my car, pretty decent to be honest. Just upgraded my turbo so I would have offered you my actuator if I knew you were looking

I had this on my car, pretty decent to be honest. Just upgraded my turbo so I would have offered you my actuator if I knew you were looking

Swap completed. Was easy, hardest part was finding the actuator.

Makes a significant difference, car is much faster when pedal to the metal. Definitely worth it.

If someone wants a RB20 turbo, no wastegate actuator, lemme know

Got rear ended today while on the way to work. Was a very low speed crash so damage is very minor, mainly scratches and small dents and the boot no longer lines up. but it is damage which now needs to be fixed. Thankfully, the guy at fault has insurance...

Edited by shubby0901
  • 2 weeks later...

Car has been booked in to be repaired on the 23rd at the repairer of choice of the insurer. I have been told not to do anything with the car, not even wash it. So I am just leaving it as it is till it is fixed.....soooo its not getting much attention at the moment. Also exams coming up so don't have a lot of time.

On a side note, the insurer I am dealing with as a 3rd party is Youi. As of now, super impressed. Everything is quick and easy. Hopefully it stays this way.

Good to hear about youi cause i have insurance with them, make sure the gaps are good and they paint job isnt full of orange peel, both of which i've experienced which is annoying and shit to look at ...

Edited by AngryRB

Recieved my new genuine Nissan coilpacks today. Keen to install them but will have to wait. Car going for repair on monday, exams from then on so will be after the 28th most likely.

20151119_101804_zps7nawhe1d.jpg

Ive heard from alot of people the genuine ones perform better, besides i believe you cant really go wrong with genuine parts.

Also these were significantly cheaper than any splitfires I could find online and instore.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...