Jump to content
SAU Community

Living With An R33 Gtst


Recommended Posts

Personally i would never go to pedders or any of those shops, i dont trust em, id only let the tuner touch my beast and 2 other businesses that have proved to be honest.  I got some MCA blues in mine, have a good reputation :happy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Contrary to Angry's experience mine was great with pedders. I went to the ridgehaven store and they looked after me great.

I had Pedders lowered springs in my old 33 and very happy with them. a little lower than factory so looks good but still high enough to be legal and allow clearance for speedbumps.

Have used pedders and KYB shocks, happy with both.

Both my 33's have been daily drivers and only basic mods and no track time. (apart from the odd day at the drags)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was pretty happy with what they did. I knew something was wrong so I took it to someone who could check and they gave me a sheet with all the actual values of results from testing and explained what meant what and what needed to be fixed. I didn't get them to do any work but fault diagnostics are fine. Using their info to find parts by myself now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job man, looks great.

Was it stock springs already in there, looks a bit low to start with? could be just the pic i guess.

Have you noticed a big difference in the feel after the change? a lot stiffer, still ok on crappy adelaide roads?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/24/2016 at 8:13 AM, Sklyn said:

Good job man, looks great.

Was it stock springs already in there, looks a bit low to start with? could be just the pic i guess.

Have you noticed a big difference in the feel after the change? a lot stiffer, still ok on crappy adelaide roads?

Cheers dude,

Yeah it was supposed to be stock springs but the was defs not stock height so dunno what was happening there.

In terms of comfort, im pretty happy. Its still bumpy but the bumps aren't as harsh which makes it nicer on a whole.

Im not debating whats next,
Sway bars, HICAS delete
Rest of exhaust (Currently catback)
Headunit, amp, speakers etc.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work on the car thus far.

unless you are drifting the car or have a problem with it, i wouldn't bother with the HICAS delete, also the swaybars would be a down the track thing unless its a track car, id start with the stereo as at the end of the day, that's where you spend your time, followed by a new dump.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My thoughts are in line with Coullsy.

Unless Hicas is failing i dont see a reason to remove it on a daily.

Though i have heard swaybars do make a noticeable difference, so it might help with the hills runs =)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey,

Cheers guys.

Yeah HICAS has not been playing up as such but the results of the suspension report show a tiny bit of play in front sway bars and rear HICAS, nothing noticeable while driving, or ive just gotten used to it.

Car audio is defs something I want to do, but I'm torn between a single din with gauges or a double din (want to give those cheap chinese android units a go). Gotta think about it.

Im working on another DIY project for the car atm, waiting for some parts to be shipped. Keen as to share with everyone "IF" it works....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Its that time of the year again where everything's due for renewals...registration, roadside assist and the dreaded insurance renewal....:down:


Waiting on a few cheap parts to arrive for me to install. I say cheap...I mean cheaper looking at the big picture of things. Some of which I'm sure people will think are super pointless, calling it now :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So over the weekend, I worked on getting both the mirrors to fold in automagically. Got it finally working, both mirrors are working!

The issue in my case was the worm gear mounted onto the motor shaft for left hand mirror had broken and therefore the shaft was turning without turning the gear itself. I ended up pulling the whole gear system apart, down to the final spring and roller ball bearings underneath the spring and re-lubricating everything, using Araldite to stick the gear onto the shaft and upon re-installation, all is working!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Over this weekend I did a couple of things.

Firstly, I installed a R34 side mount intercooler. It was a relatively easy install once you get the pipes off the cooler itself. Tiny bit of cutting of a tab on the bar which is not used for anything.

20161016_120903_zpscvutt1ow.jpg

Secondly, I properly installed the brackets and bolted the stock lip onto the car instead of the tape which was holding it up before. There are now 4 wing nuts holding the lip along with screws on the bottom and double sided tape on other parts.

20161015_200244_zpslz0cp2ax.jpg

20161016_131152_zpsojao5rff.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I am currently working on some custom LED tail lights, just waiting for parts so keen on them to see what its like all finished.

Also, not a skyline but another car video we made. Have a look if you are interested. Feedback always welcome.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Having a weird problem with the car which seems like its misfiring under max boost (13PSI). I have new coilpacks and new plugs and it is still doing it. Need to figure out what the issue is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having a weird problem with the car which seems like its misfiring under max boost (13PSI). I have new coilpacks and new plugs and it is still doing it. Need to figure out what the issue is.

How is your car hitting 13psi? I thought you had a 10psi r32 actuator?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, vxsr33 said:


How is your car hitting 13psi? I thought you had a 10psi r32 actuator?

Well I'm using the stock gauge which says its somewhere around the 650 mmHg mark so thats like 12.5-13PSI.

 

7 minutes ago, admS15 said:

What coilpacks and what plug gap?

Genuine Nissan OEM coilpacks were installed 1 year ago, brand new NGK copper plugs installed and gapped to 0.8mm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could it just be R&R?  You're still on factory ECU right? I know there's mixed results with max PSI acheivable on these things, but it's usually 14PSI range, with the intercooler upgrade, you could be flowing more air at the same PSI as before and maxing out the AFM (at a guess)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32 actuator should not be getting you more than about 11 psi on its own. If you cant/dont have/want to install an aftermarket gauge you could plug into the OBD port and check on your phone. I have one if you want to catch up and give it a whirl. (Assuming its an OBD2 port which i think they are)

Was it doing it before the new plugs went in? Loose plug/connection maybe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...