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Hi guys. I have now for a long time own a haltech PS2000 and would finally like to use it. Does anyone offer tuning service that would be able to work with me on a one on one base to get a 600 hp goal. I can provide all info needed and pay via paypal. Or wire transfer. I have very minimal experience using it. Please PM me for further details. Thanks.

Cheers

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No i did. Just have no choice really.

I wasnt thinking of remotely tuning it. Was just asking for base maps closest to my set up so i can clean it up. Hmm. So why do people sell rom tunes. Like jim wolf. And RS enthalpy. Lots of people do using the volumetric efficiency method. It gets it very close to the real thing. But from my experience the way you measure load injectors and ecu choice is key to doing a tune this way. To me a ecu is just a buffer between a the actual fuel amount and air entering the motor.

The PS2000 is actually quite an easy ECU to learn to use. I imagine any reasonable tuner with a dyno would be able to figure out the tables and how they are function in about an hour.

I'd much rather be going to someone with a dyno and getting them to learn it over any kind of remote tune, ever.... unless you have plenty of reliable gauges in your car to verify the tune is close to where it needs to be.

And if you have the gauges to do that.. and have the knowledge to fix whatever is incorrect.....you will be able to tune the thing on a dyno :P

Trouble is his car's not on the mainland.

By the way Marcus, I asked my bro-in-law and he said he wouldn't be able to make a good go of it. The only Haltech files he had for RBs had particularly wierd setups (injector sizes and stuff like having 2 banks of injectors) that would not serve as a good base for your car.

Marcus, do it your self. Sort of.

Get a wideband. From (not) wideband.com they are crazy cheap.

Edit. Can't remember actual site name. Very similar.

Get knock detection equipment of your choice.

The ps2000 can auto tune Afr with a wide band input (Afr only, obviously!)

Its not rocket surgery.

Boost car.

Cut sick.

Win races.

I How much work are you willing to put in. You will never get the tune perfect without a dyno and knock detection as the timing map is the most critical to making power. That being said what's your setup like, what turbo injectors and stuff, what boost you planing to put threw the Motor, I could talk you threw initial setup and getting the car to a point it can run and be driven under light loads only, yet to have a car that can be reliably driven you need someone with a dyno.

Edited by Scott Black

I really appreciate all the suggestion. I even joined up the haltech website last night. I have had tunes from jim wolf and RS enthalpy before and they worked fine. I can ship my car to the main land but it will be a big problem and lots of red tape. i do understand that i would be able to tune it for light loads. And investing in a good knock device would make sense as i always wanted one. I do it with the power fc, i even gave it a try with the rb25 and got it all setup and ran on light loads. I do understand that to find the right torque curve i would need to have a dyno. Over the years of messing around with the power FC all i did was look at the knock levels, as with turbo motors i would get high knock before torque drop off. Dont get me wrong its the brain dead approach, but worked as long as the fuel was good and engine was resistant to knock it was good. I would still appreciate the walk through this it. Im sure someone have what could be considered a base map for stock rb injectors using internal map sensor. Thats a good starting point and can easily be cleaned up.

Ok basically haltecs rb25 base map should have all the ignition settings correct. Depending on coils dwell will need adjusting. Injector size and latency will need to be changed to match yours. Then with the engine size set correctly you can pretty much set the entire fuel map to 80 or so. This will atleast allow the car to fire up as the base map for timing should be good enough for idle, if not the value is around 15 degrees for base idle. Once it starts confirm the engine timing matches the ecu timing.

Wideband will be needed to.adjust values to get desired afrs. Also if you don't have a base map I should be able to dig one up. Yet the biggest issue your going to have is you want to try to tune a 600hp car without the right tools. And as soon as you start putting boost into it things can go wrong very quickly. Mbt in alot of places will be reachable.before det. So if pushed to knock levels in those areas it's way past ideal. And at that sort of power level things go wrong very fast. To much timing and it will ping and be bad, to little and you end up with excessive egts and risk of burning valves and other damage. If you had a stock motor there pretty simple to work out yet when you start talking higher outputs then without the right tools it's really not a diy thing

This is intresting. Thanks for taking the time to help me out mate. Im taking a trip to miami tomorrow and when i come back im going to finish assemble my stock rb26. I will try to get the haltech working with all the parts being stock first. Just to get the motor started and get familiar with the unit. It was intresting how you mention checking the timing to make sure the haltech is reading the right thing. I guess id have to use a timing light for this and get to number one spark plug. Last time i did it i lifted the coil and used a spark plug wire with the coil sitting a bit to the side. The next part was to adjust the wide band to get the right value. That i didnt do last time. The right injector info i have. There sard 800cc injectors from rhd japan and has all the lag time. But not across voltage. Post start enrichment beat me up last time i tried it. Ill give it a very good try after i return from miami. As im going to get my work wheels for my r32 gtr. Im not even happy about it no more. I think this situation is beating me up.

Getting those Sards to idle nice will be a tedious task. Shove some faster, modern injectors in there.

I saw the wide band gauges cheap as.
Told some people and the forgot.
Scotty nm35 bought one.
Hope he remembers where from.

Still working well too. It likely saved my engine at Sandown, along with the ethanol of course, as the reg vac line popped off. It was running 16:1 down the straight at 32psi. :P

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