Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think this topic has been discussed much at all on SAU.

I know a few people on SAU use trickle chargers. This will be a first for me.

I bought myself a Trickle charger from Jaycar, but have been given advice that I need to disconnect the battery from the car so that I don't ruin the Alternator or other electronics if there is a current surge from 240V.

A few questions I have.

1. Owning an R34 GTR, where the battery in the boot, it's not very well ventilated. Are people removing their batteries from the car? Kind of defeats the purpose of a quick solution.

2. The car only gets taken out on weekends. Am i better off simply disconnecting the -ve terminal for the week? Have i wasted my $$$ on the charger?

What other tips do people have when using a Trickle charger?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457967-using-trickle-chargers/
Share on other sites

I do this,

Disconnect +Ve side on the battery and leave it. It has been fine for me for up 6 months.

When I come back from lengthy times away, I put the car on the trickle over night and that is perfect.

With the +ve side disconnected instead of the -ve I don't see how there can be a problem with sending a surge through the car....

Given that there is a 20:1 step-down in the charger (240V input, 12V or so output) there would need to be a huge input voltage surge to damage any car electronics. Do you have a surge arrester in your meter box - a big enough surge to damage anything in the car will also take out most of your house electronics.

I use a 1 amp trickle charger on a motorbike, but I run it off a timer so it's only on for an hour each day. This helps prevent over-charging the battery. Have done this for many years and battery life has been great.

My experience is using a Trickle charger is fine.

In my case If I disconnect the battery the mongoose alarm goes off.

So I leave both terminals connected while charging.

Generally only connect it up if I'm leaving the GTR in situ for over a few weeks.

Given that there is a 20:1 step-down in the charger (240V input, 12V or so output) there would need to be a huge input voltage surge to damage any car electronics. Do you have a surge arrester in your meter box - a big enough surge to damage anything in the car will also take out most of your house electronics.

I use a 1 amp trickle charger on a motorbike, but I run it off a timer so it's only on for an hour each day. This helps prevent over-charging the battery. Have done this for many years and battery life has been great.

Having it on a timer is a brilliant idea. Might give that a go. The charger i got is:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/PRODUCTS/Power-Products-Electrical/Charging/SLA-GEL-Chargers/6V-%26-12V-Heavy-Duty-8A-Car-Battery-Charger-with-Trickle-Charge/p/MB3522

I guess my main issue is that the car is kept in a downstairs garage (unit block) and I don't want to come home to an inferno. I understand that most batteries when on charge can emit gasses, which could cause a fire.

If anyone has seen the battery location on a 34R, it's an enclosed, tight space with a tonne of carpet surrounding metal

The whole idea of trickle charging is to leave the charger on the battery constantly. I don't like charging at high voltage/current with the battery connected in the car, but trickle charging should be fine.

I guess my main issue is that the car is kept in a downstairs garage (unit block) and I don't want to come home to an inferno. I understand that most batteries when on charge can emit gasses, which could cause a fire.

When you are driving the car the alternator is charging the battery, so there should be no difference really

The BNR34 has charging terminals in the front under the fuse box.

The main possible problem is reversing polarity (by accident).

If you're so concerned about surges from lightning strikes just put a surge protector between the trickle charger and the power point the same way you protect your computer.

The BNR34 has charging terminals in the front under the fuse box.

The main possible problem is reversing polarity (by accident).

If you're so concerned about surges from lightning strikes just put a surge protector between the trickle charger and the power point the same way you protect your computer.

Learn something new everyday. Did not know that. Makes it a hell of a lot easier if this is the case

  • Like 1

Learn something new everyday. Did not know that. Makes it a hell of a lot easier if this is the case

Lol, look at the fuse box and you will see a (+) and a (-) each next to a metal tab. Surely you didnt think that if you wanted to jump start your car that they would make you do it in the boot...

Lol, look at the fuse box and you will see a (+) and a (-) each next to a metal tab. Surely you didnt think that if you wanted to jump start your car that they would make you do it in the boot...

ok ok, geez, chill out man.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...