Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I'm installing a hks gt-rs turbo on my r34 GTT. Read that I should prime it before I drive and to do that I need to cut the fuel supply or ignition. Could anyone recommend which I should do? Would I just remove a fuse and if so does anyone know which one? Also if anyone has any tips like pouring oil directly into the turbo before etc feel free to share! :)

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458006-turbo-install-cut-fuel-or-ignition/
Share on other sites

Seriously people build engines without worrying about it, within a second or 2 of starting your whole engine gets oil pressure, some just squirt some oil in before fitting the oil line on.

If you want to sit there cranking it, remove the spark plugs to make cranking easy and it automatically kills spark and kicks out any injected fuel out through the plug holes.

Yeah that's what I've read, but I've also read that you could potentially kill a turbo in the first few seconds so I'd rather not risk it

Also I'm running a return flow fmic so there's all the piping above the spark plugs and I'd really like to do that as a last resort considering that'll take an hour or so to remove everything and re torque the plugs along with trying to fit that darn bitch of a pipe back up to the plenum inlet and fmic joint

No one has ever killed a turbo with oil starvation at first start up. If that actually happened it would have been a DOA turbo anyway.

When you do an oil change and fit a dry filter the whole engine runs with no oil pressure for 4-6 seconds

I put a capful of oil into the turbo itself once installed (into the oil inlet hole, to be specific, eg don't go pouring it into the compressor outlet), then put on the oilfeed line. I usually change the oil whenever installing a new turbo too, and crank the engine till oil pressure light goes off (if you have an immobiliser fitted you don't need to pull any fuses etc, it already won't start), then start her up. Drive normally till at operating temperature, then turn car off, go inside and play Street Fighter 2 Hyper edition on SNES, and let car cool down completely. My theory on that being let seals/bearings etc reach operating temperature before being subject to excessive load, and then all settle into place as they cool down, after going through a heat cycle. Maybe not needed but I've never had any turbo issues, they have all lasted 30,000 years doing it that way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...