Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got some free time again today so I spent a few hours working on the car again

So I pulled out the gearbox and the clutch that was in it was in surprisingly good condition considering it's been in there since I bought it in 2003

F602C262-493D-463B-A9F4-01781C724A96.jpg

Here's the clutch that I removed

F4782AF1-79DF-4663-8056-38FA3824186A.jpg

And the nismo clutch bolted up with the "clutch aligning tool"

CE7617EF-44F9-4CDD-BBD7-2E3A4F06304D.jpg

  • Like 1

With the gearbox I decided to change a couple of thing that needed doing and were easier to do while the box was out

First one being the power harness which also has the gearbox connections on it, it had come undone and looked untidy, so it was replaced

E7288E32-3DB9-40BE-873B-AF3C09FDEB3A.jpg

and also the car had a vibration under hard acceleration and rather then put up with it feeling like a VL commodore I bought a new one and fitted it. Which was even easier then I expected it to be

12A29CF7-031B-431E-925B-A0334813444F.jpg

So today I had some time and I did the last couple of things that needed to be done before dropping it off to get tuned

First was the a set of cam gears

F5D539BC-2B45-4FD1-A5AF-564EAA216623.jpg

And I managed to replace them without needing to take the balancer off which helped saved and hour or 2, but I wish I had of worked it out earlier and I could have saved even more time

1D21CEC5-8878-463E-A349-816070B7A6C1.jpg

then I drilled out a spare factory fuel rail to suit an 11mm injector 34943C53-FDD4-452A-9725-DED3A964B906.jpg

And the last thing was changed the spark plugs and when I inspected the factory coils I could see signs of arcing so I replaced them with a set of split fire coils

35C89724-6B8F-4536-89A3-9177555816ED.jpg

DFBB57BB-4EF0-4AD6-9D3A-D87DC0F38C26.jpg

Ok not really related to the Gtr it self but it's living space, while the Gtr was away I decided to paint the garage floor to make working on the car nicer and easier to clean up afterwards

Before

443B6029-5915-427A-BF9E-3F5270328DA3.jpg

And after, I think it look a lot better and makes the place brighter B423C3FA-5F91-44F4-9C49-5440C6E8F74B.jpg

Also the results are in, will update ASAP

  • Like 1

Technically it took 3 days but there was only about 6 hours in actual working time. It took about 2-3 hours to degrease and clean the concrete and then 24hrs to let it dry, to put a coat on took about an hour or 2 but then it was 16hrs between coats and 2 coats was enough. After that it recommends 4-7 days to cure before putting anything on it

The paint was just white knight branded garage floor paint from bunnings and a roller with a few cheap mats to put it on the floor

Grabbed the car today and the results were a little low compared to what I expected for this round result was 281kw with 1.5bar of boost and at 6,000rpm would choke to the point it no longer reved

1F255AFD-43CD-4F64-8C9E-7EF749723E20.jpg

We believe the exhaust is the culprit, basically after the drama with the engine build, I grabbed a bunch of second hand parts and put them all in there to make the car drivable. Which means the next upgrade will be building a proper exhaust that I know will never become a restriction

On a positive note it has lost very little in the way of response and makes more power down low then previously

  • Like 1

Technically it took 3 days but there was only about 6 hours in actual working time. It took about 2-3 hours to degrease and clean the concrete and then 24hrs to let it dry, to put a coat on took about an hour or 2 but then it was 16hrs between coats and 2 coats was enough. After that it recommends 4-7 days to cure before putting anything on it

The paint was just white knight branded garage floor paint from bunnings and a roller with a few cheap mats to put it on the floor

Did the same. Unfortunately the tyres pull the paint off the floor and it looks shit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...