Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pressure tested it today and found a hairline crack about 1/4 inch long on 1 intercooler pipe. Can't put a silicone joiner over it in the interim because whoever made the pipe, squashed that particular piece to an oval shape so it won't seal. Found 2 others leaks, 1 was the idle adjustment screw and the other was the bov but that's out of a factory hole cast into the vavle.

Replaced cracked intercooler pipe, problem is miles better but still exists. Only on boost and only in low boost range. Once it gets 4-5psi in its guts it clears up and revs like normal. Get an occasional backfire as it's trying to build boost.

Car was tuned in Feb and hasn't faulted since, pretty certain leak was a new problem. It reared it's ugly head after having a boost spike of 6-8psi briefly while setting up a boost controller. I'll try some known good condition coil packs.

Edited by fmlycar

Car was tuned in Feb and hasn't faulted since, pretty certain leak was a new problem. It reared it's ugly head after having a boost spike of 6-8psi briefly while setting up a boost controller. I'll try some known good condition coil packs.

As in, car was tuned, then you put in a boost controller, and it overbooosted then misfire started.

That's kinda bad.

Yeah it over shot and I backed off as soon as I seen it going past where it should be.

Just pressure tested again and found a line teed off from the boost guage line was leaking slightly. Have fixed that. Went for a drive and hasn't made much difference. Only other leak is out a small hole cast into the bov but that can probably be ruled out if it's always been there.

Car was tuned to 18psi. Ebc is in preparation for another turbo upgrade so I can run a couple boost settings. Everything suggests healthy motor, and tune was very safe as that's what I wanted. Knock never goes any higher than 30 at any given time but is for the most part under 20. Tool it for a high speed run last month and never went above 18 in all gears right up to 6500rpm in 5th

Edited by fmlycar

Took cas off, removed cover surrounding plug and sprayed inside as best I could with circuit board and contact cleaner. Reinstalled and set timing. Has now moved the misfire to more than 1 bar of boost and cleared up down low. does this sound like I should replace it?

Did you rest your timing and a small thing but 15 degrees at 650rpm for a gts25t??? That is not the orange line - each line is 10 degrees.

Mind you, I don't think thats the problem but just to be sure.

Isn't it 20 degrees btdc for series 2? I did 15 to begin with and ran like a complete bag of poo, then set it for 20 and was loads better, but not perfect. I'll check tps values again just to be sure and try borrow a working cas to see if that's it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...