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Hey all.
Been a while since I've been on here but I thought I'd make a build thread for my latest build.
I never kept memories of building my last drift car so I'll just do this one.

Currently in the process of throwing a LSA crate motor from Holden into a R32 gtst.

I have a L98 and both T56 and TR6060 on hand also so not sure which box to go with just yet.

I'll be making having mounts and exhaust done custom and will be using the GM engine controller kit and accessory drive kit.

Plans currently for the common oil starvation issue with the LS series in high G forces are Moroso baffled and trapdoor sump and 4L accusump.

Don't have many photos for now as everything is in pieces.

Will update as things progress.

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Anyway, this is my previous drift car.

Was originally 25/30 Garrett GT3582R powered.

Latest was RB25, T67 at 345rwkw.

Lots of videos of it in action here:
https://vimeo.com/user6602119/videos

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260rwkw street car

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And the beloved daily and tow car.

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I like to hug shit

Edited by -wHiStLe-
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Fantasitc build, 15k in engine alone!! Will be watching this one.

Is this the 32 that got T-boned at the Summer Matsuri this year? If it is, tough luck mate but this new build will be fantastic

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Sweet!

I would think the 6060 is the better option for ratios.

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Fantasitc build, 15k in engine alone!! Will be watching this one.

Is this the 32 that got T-boned at the Summer Matsuri this year? If it is, tough luck mate but this new build will be fantastic

Yea that's the one mate.

An unfortunate day but onto bigger and better.

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Sweet!

I would think the 6060 is the better option for ratios.

6060 would be better all round apart from mounting as IIRC they're floor/tunnel mounted.

Currently looking into a 4 speed dog box with internal oil pump and provision for cooler, if funds allow,

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subscribed

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Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been pretty flat out.

Not too much progress as I'm waiting on parts to arrive and deciding what I want to run.
Lots of choices with gearbox/clutch setup and oil system setup.

But today some of my Summit racing bits came in.

Went with a mini clockable starter over a LHD starter relo so I have other gearbox choices later on but still have space for long tubes and steering shaft clearance.

GM LSA Accessory drive kit

GM LSA engine controller kit

And a -10 check aeromotive check valve for my accusump setup that's on the way.

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Realised that my 1000hp McLeod racing clutch won't work with the standard dual mass flywheel so now tossing up whether to run a different flywheel or just use the standard setup which is the LS7 flywheel (IIRC) and a standard twin plate.

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Also waiting to swap in this subframe when I have space.

I went S13 non hicas obviously to piss off the hicas system.

I went 13 > 14 because I didn't need the extra track in the rear.

Solid subframe bushes

Subframe weld in bracing

Adjustable arms

Twin caliper setup

Project MU pads

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Edited by -wHiStLe-

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So had some spare time to dummy up the motor and it really fits in well.

Swapped the factory rear sump and just opted for a GM front sump with internal baffling and trapdoors to help prevent oil starvation. I'll be accompanying this with an accusump setup and will likely go drysump later on if the bearing have any sign of wear.

Grabbed a front sump which I was told was a vz one which I needed but turns out it wasn't and won't allow my trapdoors in so I grabbed another off a mate.

Gave it a good clean because I hate working on filthy cars and it would have looked well out of place with the shiny motor and bay.

I also fitted up my oil cooler inlet/outlet block with autometer senders to check clearance and no dramas.

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The motor sits in surprisingly well with the brackets meeting the crossmember holes perfectly.
It did require notching the crossmember as standard but it clears the clutch master, steering shaft, swaybar by mines and everything!

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Now to plate up the crossmember and mounts and fab a gearbox mount and everything can start going in.

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Crossmember notch.

Rack has been moved forward and is much stronger than standard.
I'll be filling the gap with L bracket about 5mm so should hold up well.

With these mounts, the sump sits about 3mm under the crossmember so I'll be having to make up a decent bash plate.

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Finally just about finished this build.

Still running in and yet to paint but otherwise pretty much finished.

Mods list I can remember;

Engine:
GM LSA 6.2L crate engine
Supercharged V8
Driveline:
Tremec T56 gearbox
GM Ripshifter
Custom 3" tailshaft
GTR differential
Nismo 2way lsd centre
GTR driveshafts
Chassis:
CAMS rollcage
Custom front crossmember
CUstom gearbox crossmember
S13 rear subframe
Steering rack relocation
Tubed wheel tubs
Recessed boot for cell
Suspension:
Shockworks coilovers
Cusco camber arms
GKtech toe arms
HFM caster arms
Solid subframe bushes
Twin caliper hydraulic
JDI lock knuckles
JDI LCA's
Whiteline front swaybar
GTR rear swaybar
Fuel system:
Aeroflow cradled fuel cell
Twin in tank Walbro 400
40micron Proflow filter
Custom dual entry fuel rail
-12 to -8 teflon feed line
-8 teflon return line
Turbosmart fpr
Cooling:
PWR transmission cooler
Proflow oil cooler
Fenix Radiator
BF thermo fans
Dual pass supercharger heat exchanger
Davis Craig EBP40 pump
15L ice box
Aluminium cooling ducting
Exaust:
Custom JDI 1 7/8th Ceramic coated long tube headers
Twin 3" straight pipes
Other:
3L Moroso accumulator
Autometer gauges
Racepak iq3 dash
Bride Vios 2 seats
Improved Racing baffled sump

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The initial tune net 350kw at 4600rpm and 700nm from 2500rpm onwards.
As the crate motor is still being run in, we couldn't take it past that 4500.

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The car is yet to be painted so mind the primer.

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Well done mate. Congrats on getting it all together. Love that torque and power delivery. How much boost is that at and what are you going to aim for after the run in? This is 1 epic drift car. Sounds tough as :yes:

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Well done mate. Congrats on getting it all together. Love that torque and power delivery. How much boost is that at and what are you going to aim for after the run in? This is 1 epic drift car. Sounds tough as :yes:

Thanks mate!

Standard they run 9psi. Can up them safely to about 15 but introduces a lot of heat.

Eventually with boost, injectors, e85 and a cam it should see around 530rwkw

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How did I never see your thread on here,

 

Good work Ryan, have you had a checkup after run in tune?

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