Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, dezz said:

IT kunce, does this VPN stuff work, and if so, what's a good one to use... Criterion - effective, easy to set up, not a rip off.

Another popular one is tunnel bear

11 hours ago, emts said:

apparently, I've only played with the android one as I only use it on my tablet

but there is a windows one as well.

 

assuming it the same as the android one it just a matter of install and enter user name and password

 

https://www.ipvanish.com/vpn-setup/

 

 

Martin knows his shit so this will be just as good / maybe better 

11 hours ago, dezz said:

I pretty much only want it for downloading torrents... Keep seeing the ads on kickass/pirate bay etc... Been downloading torrents as normal without giving a f**k, but if it's only a couple $ a month to avoid any potential bullshit later then why not..

Express VPN seems to be the highest rated? $8.32/mnth for 12 months...

But do I then need to use something else to download torrents or do I just download through utorrent as normal?

Yep, VPN basically 'tunnels' you over to another network and acts like you're working / downloading from that location or network. 

I'd be trialing and making sure you get good speeds, the biggest downfall with these VPN services (mainly the free ones) is it slows your speed right down, Martin mentioned 50mbps if that's true then you'll be fine. 

Took car to suspension place, for front suspension being  abit crashy.

Advise is to replace entire coilover system, entire rear subframe, both rear wheel bearings and lockout bars galore - None of which they are willing to take on for any amount of money.

Good times.

13 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Took car to suspension place, for front suspension being  abit crashy.

Advise is to replace entire coilover system, entire rear subframe, both rear wheel bearings and lockout bars galore - None of which they are willing to take on for any amount of money.

Good times.

Why didn't the Haltech alert you to this before it was an issue?

  • Like 1
1 minute ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

Why didn't the Haltech alert you to this before it was an issue?

Didn't buy the optional suspension is f**ked sensor

16 minutes ago, Birds said:

I don't wanna curse Brett with your penchant for disaster, but maybe take it to Shockworks?

I thought about this but I was under the impression the setup I had was great. Certainly felt fine, though wanted to see what the Shockworks R34 felt like. I suspected nothing was even wrong with the rear end actually. Just thought the front was hitting the stops a bit too eagerly and was a little low.

But nope, apparently the rear is so bad it'd be 'suicidal' to drive it. I'd really rather not pay $5k to get it into an approved setup lol.

16 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I thought about this but I was under the impression the setup I had was great. Certainly felt fine, though wanted to see what the Shockworks R34 felt like. I suspected nothing was even wrong with the rear end actually. Just thought the front was hitting the stops a bit too eagerly and was a little low.

But nope, apparently the rear is so bad it'd be 'suicidal' to drive it. I'd really rather not pay $5k to get it into an approved setup lol.

They just did a coilover swap on my GTS-T and the cost was very reasonable, so I guess if it's something inevitable for you, that would be a good starting point.

To be fair if I do go the whole hog and replace shocks and springs I would consider Shockworks or MCA really as the only two options to choose from. I may get away with a new set of coils, hicas lock bars and toe arms to suit, and two rear wheel bearings.

Still somewhat shit when my initial complaint to get checked out was "hm, the front seems to be pretty happy to hit bump stops and isn't low"..

Can anyone actually recommend a suspension place that won't go "Oh it's a sedan, I see your money and your questions are beneath me and please stop lowering the property value of my amazing shop"?

as this happens quite a lot

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Took car to suspension place, for front suspension being  abit crashy.

Advise is to replace entire coilover system, entire rear subframe, both rear wheel bearings and lockout bars galore - None of which they are willing to take on for any amount of money.

Good times.

werent you trying to convince me to buy it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...