Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, alr33x said:

an investment that turned out very nicely for the buyer.. geez you lot hold on to stuff way to long its actually kind of sad.

 

good work on ya dollarmite account :) 

 

Was the buyer Chinese? Just a hunch

1 hour ago, emts said:

 

western Suburbs so doubt it.

Martin thought of you the other day (nohomo) the bathurst conrod straight house / land is for sale (2mill approx they reckon)

 

Also Birds, Taha is going back to prison again :( 

Want to take pulsar to Gibson motorsport tomorrow.... Anyone wanna play with the autronic while I drive it around the block tonight? lol
I haven't driven it since leaving the shop 2 weeks ago, but once it was fully warmed up from 5mins on the street it's like high load at low rpm, foot down, no accelerator passed ~10% throttle. TPS reads fine, there is a rev cut at below 40° coolant temp, but I just checked the ecu is reading coolant temp fine.
Not being able to take off at a set of lights makes it pretty much undriveable once I get around the corner.

  • Like 1
40 minutes ago, UNR33L said:

Martin thought of you the other day (nohomo) the bathurst conrod straight house / land is for sale (2mill approx they reckon)

 

Also Birds, Taha is going back to prison again :( 

Serious? I saw him at mens gallery like two months ago, he neglected to mention that lol...though he was driving a Lambo around so, kind of adds up...

1 hour ago, Birds said:

Serious? I saw him at mens gallery like two months ago, he neglected to mention that lol...though he was driving a Lambo around so, kind of adds up...

Yeh I got him on facebook lel 

 

Add $250 water bill to that list of bills I have right now, fml :( #adultlyfe

 

 

Edited by UNR33L

Took car for a drive, coolant temps are pretty damn low when putting around off boost. Started to cut out again, so turned off the low-temp rev limiter and it cleared it all up. Needs a bit of tidying up at higher rpm but success!
Hooooly shit it's the loudest turbo sounded car I've ever been in. Maybe it's the vented bonnet and small open gateway between cabin and engine bay.

Inb4 car destroyed due to Greg-style tampering.


  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...